McCall 5468 and New Look 6648

This past weekend, I completed two projects, McCall 5468 and New Look 6648. Both were fairly heavily altered from their original states.

First, McCall 5468. This was a new pattern for me.


I was originally attracted to the sort of glam retro vibe the pattern had going on, but ended up doing the "franken-dress" thing because I wasn't entireley happy with either version of it. I liked the sleeves and skirt length of view A:


But didn't want the cross-over front, mainly because I already had so many wrap dresses, and this really didn't set it apart from those wrap dresses. Instead, I wanted a scoop neckline, but the scoop neck had these odd batty sleeves, with armscyes that went almost all the way to the waistline. I would feel like a flying squirrel in that!!

So, I redrafted the front of the dress by tracing the sides and armscyes of view A, and the neckline of view D. Also, after reading the reviews of the dress on PR, I decided to raise the neckline and add a binding, since most of the other reviewers had had issues with the depth of the scoop neck. The pattern instructions also had the neckline constructed with a simple hem, with I felt really didn't give a very finished look. Hence, the binding.


I also left off the back tie because I felt it looked a little too twee for a 36-year-old. Now, if I were 35, maybe....but really, what adult woman wants a dress with a bow above her butt? Nothing against those of you who may want that, but I am nothing if not opinionated. Plus, I made it, so I can leave off anything I want. To make up for the fact that I left off the back tie, I cut the waist band smaller than the pattern indicated.

In fact, I cut the whole pattern smaller than indicated. It was hard to decide what size to sew because there is so much ease in the pattern. According to my measurements, I am exactly inbetween a 16 an an 18, so I normally cut a 16 because the "Big 4" run just that...BIG. But, according to the pattern, the finished garment measurements were 44 inches at the bustline for a 16, and that is just too much ease in my opinion for a knit, so I cut a 14. The dress is still large, the shoulders are wider than they should be, you can see in the photo above that the shoulder seams droop off the dress form. If I make it again, I will get the other pattern envelope and use the 12, and make an attempt at an full bust adjustment and also lengthen the bodice. It's not quite short enough to be an empire waist, and not quite long enough to hit at the natural waist.

I also changed how the skirt was gathered. After my "how many months are you?" experience with my last gathered skirt (Simplicity 3678) I shifted the bulk of the gathering away from the center of the skirt.


It did not result in the front being entirely flat, but much better than previous attempts. I think that if I make the dress again, lengthen the bodice, and make the waist smaller yet, that it will look much better.


Overall, I am not as "wowed" by the dress on, as I was by the concept of the dress. I like it better on other people. But that in part may be my own fault and the fact that I cobbled together different pieces, drafted a new neckline, added a binding, moved the gathers, left off pieces, possibly used the wrong size....

But I think that the main issue is that I am a bit bottom-heavy and the gathered skirt does nothing to help mask that, where an a-line or gored skirt, as Clinton and Stacy would say, skims the body and hides any multitude of sins. I have made other dresses that really do flatter much more than this one. Although after reading the positive comments on PR, I may have to rethink...perhaps I just know how I WANT it to look, and to those people who aren't party to the "image in my head," the dress is perfectly fine!!


When I think about it and really dissect what initially attracted me to the dress, it was the sleeves with the gathered wrists. And I can draft those sleeves onto any number of other dresses that I have found that work better for my body. So, when you see a review for Vogue 8379 with long sleeves gathered at the wrist, you will know that I have been slicing and dicing patterns!!


The second project that I finished over the weekend was New Look 6648. I have made this pattern before, and I quite like it. It is a great shirt with simple lines that is perfect for "over the top" fabrics, because there is no aspect of the shirt itself that competes for attention. It is just a simple top with kimono sleeves and a shirred waist.


However, there is one issue that is bothersome. As drafted, the neckline is huge, and you are constantly tucking away bra straps. Here is the original version. You can see how broad the neckline is:


Here is my new version, in a wild leopard print that I couldn't pass up at Hancock's:


I made the neckline smaller...I would say that I redrafted it, but that would be doing the word "redrafting" a disservice. I freehanded it while I was cutting the pattern out. Fortunately I didn't gank it up too bad. I used the existing pattern for the neckline binding , but just cut it shorter. I also did not use their instructions for attaching it, but folded it in half, and sewed it on like a standard binding.


The only downside to the shirt is that even with the new neckline, you still have to wear a cami underneath, because you can see straight in the arms if you raise them. The sleeves are huge! But, the shirt is super-comfy, and like wearing your pajamas.


It also only takes about an hour to cut out and sew...really! It is so simple you won't believe it! Two seams, hem the sleeves, add the neck binding, and the waist and you are done!