This weekend I worked on a pattern from a new (to me) pattern line: Salme Patterns. They have a shop on Etsy, and when you order the pattern, you receive an email with a PDF that can be printed and taped. The patterns do not include seam allowances, so they are very much like a Burda pattern. I ordered the pattern for the pleated t-shirt:
On Saturday, I completed a muslin. I cut a size 16, and made some small alterations after the muslin. The most significant issue was a fold between the bust and shoulder, and I had to make some alterations at the armscye. It really needs a bust dart, but the pleats make that very difficult. If this turns out to be a pattern that I make more of in the future, I may attempt a dart like the horizontal one on the left, and see if I can line it up with the first pleat:
This image is from an article in Threads, Nov 2008, regarding fitting the armhole to fit the bodice. You can find the full article here: link.
One of the issues that I had to deal with is that the shirt is very boxy, which is not good for someone like me who is a bit heavier. If I were tall and thin, it would not be an issue at all. The side seams are perfectly straight, so I also contoured the waist (tapering in to a size 12) and added a slight amount (1/4 inch at each side seam) to the hips.
If you do the same, when you redraw the waist, to make sure your contouring is matching in the front and back, fold up the pattern so you fold out the pleats and then contour. The resulting shirt is very clean, very simple, and could be very versatile depending on whether you use a solid or a print. It is also a way to use some very decadent fabrics without spending an arm and a leg, since it takes only 2 yards of 45 inch wide fabric, and 1 1/4 of 60 inch wide fabric.
After completing the muslin, I purchased a navy poly faille from a local fabric store that was printed with multicolored feathers:
Hopefully I will have an opportunity this week to finish it up.
I have a small set of projects "in the pipeline" to hopefully augment my work wardrobe this summer. First is a dress from this border print lawn:
I have already cut out Butterick 5612, with the blue border at the hem. I also have a beige twill and a navy twill for pants, which I desperately need. I am considering refitting either a basic Burda with a narrow leg, or the ubiquitous Alice and Olivia bootcut pant from Vogue:
Both of the twills came from my local Hancock's, where I also found on a clearance table to $6.00 a yard a very sweet silk chiffon. I have enough to make a shirt with a tie collar, and two options for patterns...a Butterick with princess seams, or a Hot Patterns with darts and gathers at the shoulders and back yoke.
I also have a lightweight wool in a british khaki that matches a striped shirting that I have had in stash for a while. I was thinking pants and a men's style shirt with white collar and cuffs, possibly even french cuffs.
There are also a few fabrics floating around in stash that may or may not see the light of day this summer. I have a pile of charmeuses and georgettes that would make lovely dresses....
And a couple of bottom weight fabrics that have been aging in stash for a while, including a blue striped ivory wool, a pinstriped taupe silk/cotton for pants, and a white pique that with lining would make nice pants:
For now, I am not going to make any massive plans, since I have been a bit slow to get back into sewing. I don't want to overwhelm myself with making a plan for a giant capsule. If I get through the dress, 3 pants, and 2 shirts that I laid out above, I will consider that a successful summer.
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