Don't Do It, Girl!

I just finished my most recent version of Vogue 8379 and am further convinced that this is truly the best possible dress pattern for a girl with a little extra fluff on their bones. To prove a point, I am making a side-by-side comparison of Vogue 8379 and another DVF wrap lookalike, Kwik Sew 3489.


Now you can see that at first glance, the Kwik Sew pattern looks a bit more like the original DVF dress, namely in that it is lacking the darts at the waist that Vogue added to their version, and it has the narrower skirt (so much narrower in fact that the Kwik Sew version takes 3/4 a yard less fabric than the Vogue version). But, as you can see from the following photographs, it is just the Vogue details that the chubby girl needs, and when it is lacking the dress magic is lacking too.

For my most recent version, I used a poly-lycra in an awesome giraffe print from Gorgeous Fabrics. While you'll never be able to brag about how cheaply you got off at Gorgeous Fabrics, you will be able to brag about the amazing and unique fabrics you find there.




Here you get all three views. The wide waist tie is great for cinching the waist, the wide skirt skims over the hips, and the darts/tucks at the front make it unnecessary for those of us of the D-cup persuasion to be concerned about big alterations like making a full-bust alteration, especially since you are already working with a stretchy knit. The back is properly tapered, so it doesn't tug at the waist-tie, and this is the one wrap dress that I don't have to worry about raising the neckline on. It is already properly drafted. The only alteration necessary is lengthening the bodice, and I knew that because of my first version, and also reading the reviews on Pattern Review.

Last week I made a muslin of Kwik Sew 3489. Let's face it, sometime you get bored...even when a pattern is clearly as perfectly drafted as Vogue 8379. You can probably see from the look on my face in the photos that my disappointment was palpable.

Having never used a Kwik Sew pattern before, I traced based on what the size chart indicated. I tend to go a bit smaller with Vogue/McCalls/Butterick and A LOT smaller with Simplicity because I am familiar with the amount of ease they put into their patterns. But since the Kwik Sew pattern was SO specific with the amount of stretch (35%!!) and even provided a gauge, I traced the pattern "true-to-size" and selected a large based on my measurements.

For example, my measurements are:

Bust: 39.5
Waist: 32
Hips: 41

In the Vogue pattern, I cut a 16, for which the measurements indicated:

Bust: 38
Waist: 30
Hips: 40

I decided to go with the smaller size because I was using a very stretchy knit, and was familiar enough with the pattern to feel comfortable going down a size, given that the last version I made was cut as an 18, so I had a basis for comparison.

In the Kwik Sew size chart, my measurements fall within the lower range for a Large, but outside the range for Medium.

Bust: (L) 40-41 1/2, (M) 37-38 1/2
Waist: (L) 31-33, (M) 27 1/2-29
Hips: (L) 41 1/2-43 1/2, (M) 38 1/2-40

Clearly, I am too large for a Medium, correct? Also, being very used to sewing in the 16-20 range in patterns even though I purchase a 10-14 in ready-to-wear, why question cutting a Large?

Well, question it. I should have cut a medium, at least in the bodice, and even that might not have solved all the problems illustrated below. Overall, the dress is not as flattering as the Vogue dress. Also, I took these photos on the same day as the photos in the pink dress, so I am wearing the same undergarments. There is no reason I should look this lumpy in the green dress. I'm wearing my Spanx.

1. Because the dress has bust darts rather than the darts at the waist like the Vogue version, when the waist is pulled small enough to fit my waist, it pulls in an odd way under the bust.


2. The very thin waist tie not only is very difficult to turn, but also cuts into the waist rather than cinching the waist the way the wider tie does in the Vogue version


3. The bust darts do not fall in the proper location, and you can see from the side view that the dress is just not as flattering as the pink one above. These photos were taken 10 minutes apart, I did not have enough time to put on 10 pounds. Nor did I have my boobs lowered. That is ALL THE DRESS.


4. The back is very wide and blouses out over the waist tie. I have love handles already. I generally do not like to enhance them by encasing them in green fabric and draping them over a belt.


5. As broad shouldered as I am, I am shocked that I need to take this pattern in across the shoulders. Who are they drafting these patterns for? Body builders?


6. Rather than skimming over the body the way the Vogue skirt does, this narrow skirt clings to the body instead. NOT GOOD for the chubby girl. I might need to put some spackle on that hail damage.


While the Kwik Sew version may be a good option for those with a firmer physique, if you are trying to disguise anything, I cannot recommend it.

Now, I could go back and fix all the problems with the Kwik Sew pattern and make it like the Vogue pattern, but why? When the Vogue pattern is already 90% perfect, and all I have to do is lengthen the bodice? Plus, if I want that curved skirt edge detail from the Kwik Sew pattern, I can just draft that onto the Vogue skirt.

My high hip fluff and I will be sticking with Vogue 8379.