I have been having some trouble trying to decide what to do with my grey and blue plaid wool blend. I would like to make a suit, but want to keep the lines simple so that matching the plaid doesn't get too complex.
There are three jacket patterns that I am considering that I really like the shape of. The first is McCall 5935, which is a fairly traditional single-breasted blazer from the front, but the back has the added interest of a little peplum. The pattern photo even gives a sample of one in plaid.
The second option is Vogue 8481, a Claire Schaeffer Custom Couture pattern. This one would be a good option because of the additional tailoring and construction information that is included in Claire Shaeffer's patterns. Fortunately, both McCalls and Vogue patterns are on sale this weekend at Hancock's, so I can pick these up to make muslins.
Another option is Burda Magazine 09/2009/111, a longer jacket with an interesting lapel. I'm not sure about the length, though. I have always worn shorter jackets because I have always been of the mind that trying to hide a wide hip under a longer jacket merely draws attention to them. But then again, does chopping the body horizontally at it's widest point not do the same thing? I am torn and therefore considering a longer jacket.
For pants, I have found that of all the muslins that I have made, one of the ones that get the most wear are the ones that I made from Vogue 2907:
The shape of the legs are flattering, the waistband hits in a comfortable spot, and I like the wide, contoured waistband. Now that I have worked out all of my fitting issues in pants, I am sure that I can alter these to get rid of the bunching under the buttocks, really the only issues that I had with this pattern originally (but of course the one issue that took me the most work to figure out how to fix).Otherwise I might make a skirt. Maybe a pencil skirt with a high waist, like McCalls 5590:
I recently read a review for this skirt in Ann's Gorgeous Thing's blog recommending sewing short pieces of boning into the seam allowances at the waist to keep it from folding over. Another option would be Butterick 5249:
I could see using view A, and then turning the center panel so that the plaid was on the bias in the center. Of course I don't know how that would look in comparison to the jacket, unless you were to use some bias in the jacket as well, such as on the pocket flaps.
I think I certainly have a lot of decisions to make, but since the patterns are on sale this weekend I will probably go ahead and pick them up...that way I can compare instruction pages, pattern pieces, even make muslins for comparisons before settling for one or the other.
I would appreciate any input from anyone who has made a suit before though, especially anyone who has worked with plaids. I am excited to get started on this project! But planning is pretty fun, too! It is of to the fabric store tomorrow for patterns, and hopefully I will be able to decide!
I think I will also give a test run using a gray herringbone that has been aging in my stash for about a year now:
I remember it came from Fashion Fabrics Club via one of their crazy sales for the princely sum of about $3.00 a yard, and it MUST have been sold to me as something other than wool, because at the time I would not have purchased wool because I had an absolute FEAR of linings and never would have purchased wool. However, today I gave it a burn test and according to this handy-dandy little webpage I think that it must have been mis-marked because I think it is actually wool.
All the same, I will feel a lot more comfortable giving a longer jacket or a high-waist skirt a try in $3.00 a yard fabric than I would in the "let's-just-not-talk-about-how-much-I-spent" Portland fabric. Seriously, when you live in a crappy fabric town, you go a little nuts when presented with the real stuff!! It's easy to resist online, but once you touch the lusciousness, you are lost!
7 comments:
I love every one of those patterns! I already have that Butterick skirt, but must get the rest! I can't wait to see your suit! That fabric is beautiful. Alas that I have no reasonable advice to give, having neither suiting or plaid experience.
Okay, I'm much wider on the bottom than on the top and have thrown that longer jacket advice out the window. I will tell you this...in a solid color long over long works. In a plaid if it gives the illusion of one look...long over long will work. Personally I have found that short jackets cut me in half and I normally only use them over dresses...but that's me!
Now that being said, for working with the plaid fabric choose a single layout over doubled fabric layouts because it will be easier to match the plaids. Don't be afraid to turn some of the plaids on the bias. It gives it a different and appealing look and relieves you of some plaid matching duties.
I know you will make a wonderful suit!
I have never worked with plaid or made a suit. I am excited to see what you choose. Sounds like Carolyn has great advice!
How about considering a just-to-the-bottom-of-the-knee length sheath dress in the plaid? With jacket in coordinating (not matching) fabric?
Image here,
http://slimages.macys.com/is/image/MCY/products/7/optimized/659867_fpx.tif?bgc=255,255,255&wid=327&qlt=90,0&layer=comp&op_sharpen=0&resMode=bicub&op_usm=0.7,1.0,0.5,0&fmt=jpeg
~OR here~
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_oa-Fpq8GLE0/SI1LPpU3xuI/AAAAAAAABj4/6CLM-rbBkKY/s320/sheath3.jpg
I think all the jacket patterns would look good in your plaid fabric, which is really beautiful. It is a subtle plaid which may look like a solid gray from a distance. Just be aware that with some plaids the distance between the lines, in the horizontal and vertical directions, is different. Yours looks longer vertically. So you have to make sure any pattern pieces that will be matched and sewn together are laid out with the grain line going the same way, all vertical or all horizontal. No turning one piece 90 degrees to save fabric. Ask me how I know! And this plaid will not look balanced when it is cut on the bias. This might be an issue if there is one bias cut panel in the middle of a garment, but if there are two and they are mirror images of each other, it would work just fine.
Ah, yes...I see...because the "plaids" aren't square, they are rectangle. So everything needs to be laid out in the same direction, and anything on the bias is going to look lopsided unless it is matched by the same "lopsided-ness" on the other side. Thank you!
I agree with what Carolyn said. It makes sense. Can you do an in between jacket? Not too long and not too short? =)
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