Since I have started sewing in earnest again, one of the things that has been relatively disappointing is the dearth of patterns for men. I would really like to sew something for my husband, but when this is the caliber of what is out there:
What the hell are you gonna do? So, I picked up this Japanese pattern book on Ebay:
Now, we all know that I don't read Japanese. But fortunately, I know the basics of shirt construction...enough so that if I can figure out the drafting of the patterns and the seam allowances that I can assemble the shirts. The shirts themselves are VERY stylish:
I have decided that I will start with shirt number 3, a basic collared shirt with a collar stand, back yoke with pleat, and sleeve placket (some people call this a "gauntlet"):
Here is an image of one of the pattern sheets...It is not too different from tracing from Burda, except it appears that the seam allowances are included on these, just that they vary from piece to piece. And they are in centimeters. Which is very confusing. Which makes me want to trace the pattern pieces without them and just add my own. Which essentially neutralizes the incredible levels of work that it takes to decide how to vary those seam allowances to save you from having to trim them, yadda, yadda, but I'm lazy and don't want to think about metrics....I know...I know.....
Anyway, speaking of tracing, here is a fun little hint....I have been using soil separator fabric to trace my patterns ever since I heard about it on pattern review. BUT, I have been struggling with trying to find something to trace with. Pens, markers, sharpies...they all bleed through. But pencils don't leave any mark. So the other day, I took some scraps of soil separator to the art supply store and played around with all the markers and crayons seeing which would bleed through, which would rub off on my hands, and found these Neocolor crayons:
They are soft enough that it is super-easy to draw on the soil separator fabric, it doesn't bleed through, and as long as you don't use the black or dark grey....it won't rub off on your hands! So, I have been tracing patterns today. I'm really happy with these little crayons. We'll see how these work for a while.
So, do you sew for your menfolk? What are your favorite patterns?
10 comments:
Hi, I have that book (and a few other japanese sewing books)and I don't think the seam allowance is included in any pattern pieces. Could be wrong, but the seam allowances shown on the instruction pages indicate how much you should add. Hope you enjoy the book. They are great patterns. -SusanH
Ah, that is EXCELLENT news! And will make my complete misuse of the patterns much easier!!! I think they may show them around some of them, but only the largest size in a faint dotted line...I'm still deciphering it all (and of course hobbled by my complete lack of any knowledge of Japanese).
I am really looking forward to making some of the shirts!
Have you ever considered the Islander Sewing System patterns? I picked up one the expo, and while I haven't hade a chance to work with it, they are supposed to be wonderful. Good luck with the Japanese, and thanks for the info about soil separator fabric. What a great option!
Some pattern magazines (Burda, Knipmode) have specials with patterns for men. Maybe you could look into those?
I do sew for my husband... But not that much. Yet. Somehow it frightens me a bit. Don't no why. It won't be that much harder than sewing for myself, only more fabric and larger pattern pieces. He did request a suit, though, but that's something I postpone for now. ... Some day :-)
Thank you for the tip about the crayons. I use soil seperator also. I'll have to give these crayons a try.
OOh! I have to go find some of those crayons!! You can always tell I've been tracing patterns by the marks all over my hands and the mat from the bleed through. Thanks for the tip!! I've made a couple of things for dh. We've had the best luck with Burda patterns. They're a bit more fashion forward, but still. I feel your pain!
That Japanese sewing book looks amazing - lucky husband!
Burda 7767 is an up-to-date men's shirt with various collar options and sleek European styling. Have written about it on my blog here: http://sewing-lingerie-myself.blogspot.com/2009/08/pattern-review-burda-7767.html
It really irks me that there aren't more patterns for men. You probably saw my review on PR about the Burda men's shirt I've sewed four times now. I am currently looking for a men's long-sleeved knit shirt but haven't run across one.
Thank you for the crayon tip! I'm going to run out and get some right now.
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