Saturday, February 5, 2011

Two New Tops

January was not a very productive month...between a crazy time at work, and a couple of bouts with the flu, I did not do very much at all. I finally did pull myself together towards the end and finish a second version of the Burda 12-2009-120 hoodie:


For this version, I used a length of slub rayon knit from Fabric.com rather than a sweater knit. I also added snaps to the front placket; I had some pearl snaps left over from a western shirt I made for my husband:


The first couple days of February we had some snow days and campus was closed, so I took advantage of the time to get started on a version of Burda 09.2009.139, a raglan sleeve blouse with pussy bow.


The pattern has some nice details like gathers on the bodice at the raglan seam...if you need it, it makes an FBA really easy, although Burda typically is drafted for a larger cup size than "The Big 4." I made it from a poly charmeuse, that came from the set of fabrics I put together for my Winter SWAP so many months ago.


A little hint for working with slithery poly, which I find irresistible due to the wonderful prints, even though I can only wear it in winter since poly is too hot for summer....

When you are ready to cut your pattern out, starch the heck out of the fabric. I hang the whole length of fabric over the shower rod and spray and spray....let it dry and then it will be super-easy to cut, press, and sew. Once you have the garment finished, throw it in the laundry to remove the starch and voila! Super-easy! No slithering!! The only thing that it makes difficult is using the narrow hem foot...but given that I have never truly mastered that foot, I typically just press in a 1/4" hem instead...and the starch makes pressing SO much easier.

Also, use a microtex needle to avoid pulls from a heavier needle, and if you use a buttonhole attachment, use a sheet of tissue on top to keep the attachment from snagging the fabric.

Anyway, on to the final photos....


This shirt has no darts for shaping, it is designed to be tucked in. I am not a "tucker," but I have come back to this pattern every time I flip through my old Burdas...finally, a year and a half later, I got around to tracing it off.

The neckline is open under the bow/collar:


The pattern has a cut-on facing, which makes the front shaping fairly simple. Here is a close-up of the raglan seams/gathers:


The sleeves are very full, which lots of gathers at the cuff:


I think it will look very nice with a pair of full-legged trousers, or even a high-waisted pencil skirt.

I was doing some organizing in the sewing room, trying to better organize my notions so the ones that I use the most are more convenient. I thought you might get a kick out of one of my most used notions, my hem gauge:


This came to me in the sewing chair when my grandmother gave me her sewing machine probably 15 years ago. Can you see the little label? "Penneys." Not even J. C. Penneys....it's that old! Not to mention, how long has it been since J. C. Penneys had a sewing department?

Hopefully this month I will have a chance to continue working on the SWAP I started in October...since I still have a bit of winter left.

Happy Sewing Everyone!

16 comments:

KID, MD said...

Both look wonderful! I have to admit to a mild addiction to poly charmeuse as well. I'll remember that starch tip!

Marybeth said...

I love both of those tops! Thanks for the tip about starching!

Carolyn (Diary of a Sewing Fanatic) said...

The blouse and the hoodie are both really cute!

Aminat said...

Those are two lovely tops....

Mary Nanna said...

Very pretty tops - can I beg you to model the Burda blouse for us when you have some free time? I have loved that blouse for a long time, and would love to see it on a real person. ....no pressure though, just if you find yourself alone and bored and the chocolate is calling you from the fridge and you want a worthy distraction.

Faye Lewis said...

Both tops are so nice. I'm impressed by the snaps - I've never done those. I remember when Penny's had their fabric department - when I was in high school.

Big in Japan said...

You say, "not productive" , I say, "much more productive than some of us over on the eastside" . I'm usually not a fan of the Pussy Bow, but the funky fabric made me reconsider. Ditto what Mary Nanna said about the photo!

Karin said...

Both tops are fantastic! I can't decide which one I like best. I have some fabric.com slub rayon I don't know what to do with. Your use of it in the hoodie makes me see it in a new light. The silk blouse is gorgeous.

gwensews said...

Very pretty tops. I love the black/white print, which will look wonderful with black bottoms.

angie.a said...

Beautiful top! This has been on my list of "to do" for a LONG time too. Great tip about starching too. I hate poly prints and I love poly prints. you know what I mean. ;)

Eugenia said...

Oooh both of these tops have made me envious - I love them. How nice that you have made a casual top and a dressy top - you're ready for anything! I particularly love the snaps on the hoodie - very nice. Seeing your beautiful pussy bow blouse has inspired me to go and find my copy of this magazine - how did I miss this one? Thanks for the tips on working with slippy material - I'm definitely going to try starch next time I need to control a difficult fabric.

Michelle said...

Eugenia, I bet you missed it because it was in the plus section...although I think it does go down to a 44, and looks fairly easy to grade down further. The sleeves and front are so full, you could probably get away with just taking in at the side seams for fit.

Irene said...

LOVE the blouse with bow! So elegant.

Heather said...

Lovely tops! I think I have some sewing supplies with Penny's on it too!

Angela said...

Those are great tops!! I didn't think about starch... I use this fabric stabilizer instead but I bet starch is cheaper. Thanks for the tip!

Anonymous said...

Hi I'm a new follower. I found you through pattern review. I just love so many things you've done. I especially love then Henley top-hoodie. Ahh and I don't get Budra magazine. I guess that'll be on my birthday wish list.