There were a couple of changes that I made from the original. First, I decided that I wanted to add a bit of room at hip level. While this top has a TON of ease across the bust (complete with gathers), at hip level it is a touch snug. Normally a 46 fits just fine, but in this second version I added a bit at the side seams.
Second, I decided to make this version using french seams. This took a little planning to make sure that I assembled it in the proper order to allow for the enclosed seams. Because I made this from a chiffon, I didn't want the interior seams to show at all. Here is a photo of the interior of the shirt:
Third, I used Pam Erny's Clean Finished No-Bulk Facing technique. I had to trace off a pattern piece for the interfacing using the shirt front. Fortunately, the Burda pattern indicated a fold line for the cut-on facing, so I used that as the edge of the interfacing pattern.
Finally, I wanted to find a way to use less fabric in making the shirt. Based on the Burda pattern instructions, 3.5 yards are necessary for the shirt. 3.5 yards is a LOT for a shirt. When I buy for "stash," I usually purchase 2 to 2.5 yards for a shirt, and 3.5 is what I normally purchase for a dress. Therefore, I had no pieces in my stash that were large enough for the second version.
If you look at the Burda layout, they do the neck tie in a single layer...and that one piece takes up half of the length of fabric:
For this version, I cut the neck tie so that it has a center back seam (which, interestingly, is present in the Burda line drawing). By doing this, I was able to get all the pattern pieces laid out on 2.5 yards of fabric.
One thing that I did find the instructions to be a bit vague on was the attachment of the shirt front to the front sleeve that would allow for the neck tie to be attached properly. To leave space for the attachment, the shirt front needs to be set back 5/8 inch.
This makes for a nice, clean intersection for the shirt front and the tie collar:
As before...I starched the heck out of the chiffon prior to laying out and cutting. That makes the fabric slither less while you are handling it...but also makes it hold a crease much better when pressing hems.
Finally, in the comments on the last blog, there were a few requests to see the shirt "On the Hoof," so to speak. Here is the last version ready to go to work:
One of my students even complimented me on it after class. Of course, that may just mean that they are afraid of the upcoming midterm.
I hope everyone had a great sewing weekend. I think I am now ready to move on to another pattern. I was going to work on a sweater dress this week to finish off my winter sewing, but today the temperature soared into the 60's. Now I just want to sew pink things...with short sleeves.
6 comments:
Fabulous!! This is a gorgeous pattern and it looks great on you.
Wow, I love the fabrics you used to make this blouse pattern. The fabics and the style are so flattering to you. I think your student's comment was because of that, not because he/she was trying to get better grade.
Helpful instructions, great blouse. and I'm quite sure it was a genuine compliment!
That's a beautiful blouse, so feminine.
Lovely, lovely blouse - very pretty and also, at the moment, very high fashion. It looks fantastic on you.
I really like this blouse on you - it's so pretty! Thank you for obliging with a photoshoot - it's so helpful to see things on.
Post a Comment