Finally, a Finished Top

Finally, I have a finished shirt.  In the previous post, I reviewed all the alterations that I did in order to get BurdaStyle 12.2011.107 to fit....and really could probably have just drawn my own pattern by the time I was finished.  But, by then it was a test of wills between me and the pattern, so I had to see it through to the end.

Because it wasn't difficult enough to make the alterations, I set myself up for additional difficulty by using a semi-sheer lawn/swiss dot, which required that I underline the top as well, which I did for the bodice and waistline.

Underlining does have one advantage, and that is that you don't have to use facings of any kind.  You can just use the underlining fabric itself to hide raw edges, such as the back neckline:

I also used the underlining to hide the shoulder seam.  It's a trick I learned from a HotPatterns top that had you "wrap" the facing around to the right side of the garment, sew the shoulder seam, and then turn everything right side out and tadaaaa...you have a finished edge, hidden shoulder seam, and your facing won't flip around.

Here is how I did it with the underlining.  I started by sewing the front neckline edge all the way up to the seam line:

Then I pinned, right sides together, the front and back bodice pieces at the shoulder.  I "wrapped" the underlining around the neckline edge, pinning so the back bodice was now in between two layers of the front bodice.  I sewed the seam, trimmed the corner, and flip....here is the finished neckline:

I then continued to work somewhat according to the instructions, with some slight changes in construction order to allow for the underlining.  After attaching the center front of the bodice, I then sewed on the waistbands.  The back waistband was flat, so it was easily attached, but the front band had a center peak.  The best way to attach that band is to sew in from each side, towards the peak.  Don't try to make a turn at the peak, it will just make it messy.  Mark your seams here, it helps.

 

Do the same in attaching the skirt/peplum.

Once the waistbands were attached, I inserted the sleeves...It is simple to do this while everything is flat, because the sleeves are heavily gathered.

I then added an invisible zipper on one side:

After that, it was quick finishing to sew the other side seam and finish the hems.

Here is the finished top:

And, on the hoof:

The fit is good, considering the acrobatics that I had to perform to finish it.  So good, in fact, I am attempting the dress version....