The rules state that the pattern has to be issued between 1920 and 1975, no reissues. Fortunately, I have about 150 vintage patterns that fit the bill. So, I decided that I wanted to make Simplicity 2458:
I pulled out all the pattern pieces and started ironing them...and the back bodice piece was missing! Gah!!!!
So, back to the drawing board, I pulled Simplicity 3580 out of the box:
Again, I pulled out all the pattern pieces and started ironing and.....the sleeves and cuffs were missing!!!!
So, I headed over to PR to see if I could draft a sleeve, or morph the bodice together and still manage to stay within the rules. Fortunately, the contest manager said that it would be fine since both the patterns were vintage; I could morph them together.
I decided that it would be easier to make sleeves fit than put together two bodice pieces, so I traced off Simplicity 3580. I added 2 inches in width to the back and 3 inches to the front. I also moved the darts around; and shortened them slightly since the pattern was drafted in the age of bullet-bras. Since the current silhouette is one that is more rounded, I shortened the darts so that the bodice front wouldn't come to a point. I also moved the side dart lower to accommodate my lower bust point.
I made a quick bodice muslin, and I need to do a couple small tweaks. I can't decide how closely that I want the bodice to fit. It is hard to tell from the drawings what the intention was. In 2458, the top blouses out a bit over the belt in the drawing on the left. Although this online article "Tracing the Path of the 1950's Shirtwaist" show examples that are both very closely fitted, and some that are not.
However, I am assuming that one of the reasons that ladies in the 50's and 60's could wear such closely fitted dresses is that everyone was girdled within an inch of their lives. While I do plan on donning the Spanx to wear the dress, I don't intend to wear a full girdle, so I think based on that I should go with a slightly less fitted version. Also, being a little heavier, more ease rather than less might be a better idea, since the standard is that the larger the size, the more ease is needed.
Starting on the 15th, I will forge ahead. I have a length of lightweight sateen from Fabric.com (the $1.95 sale!) and thought that the large scale print would be fun for the vintage dress:
If everything works out well, I'll be able to make a version in blue silk for the upcoming reunion:
7 comments:
Yes I do understand the pain of finding pieces missing in vintage patterns. It's right up there with finding moth holes in vintage fabric!
Ahh, I had been waiting to see what you were going to do with the large print fabric. I remembered it from Fabric.com and your blog posting of the purchase. Looking forward to seeing the finished product!
I can't wait to see this dress finished. Girdle. I always laugh at that word. Can you imagine wearing those things!? In the summer?! I read somewhere that William Shatner wears one.
So fun!! This is going to be a great dress.
This contest will be heaps of fun - I look forward to seeing how it comes out!
Michelle - absolutely right -- you'll need more ease if you sew that pattern depending on the fit or you'll have to wear a longline bra/corset/girdle to fit into that dress. The patterns were designed with the underpinnings of the era in mind. I'm sure you already know to take your measurements in your Spanx and adjust accordingly. I can't wait to see how they turn out!
Lovely creations, Michelle! Thanks for the update of what you are working on!
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