Sunday, April 11, 2010

A Productive Weekend...

This weekend has been fairly productive. The first thing that I did was complete the alterations to the pattern and sew a version of the Burda 04-2010-116 shirt dress. Burda describes the pattern as "shirt-styled shift dress of light-weight chambray is the ideal bikini cover-up. A belt with D-ring buckle cinches it to your waist."

I was immediately attracted to the dress, because I could just envision it in a blue and white stripe like a man's oxford shirt. But, I hated the shape at the waist. The dress itself had no shaping, and the back bloused out hugely, even in the magazine images:


That looks bad enough on that tiny model, can you imagine what it would look like on me? So, I decided that I would alter the pattern. I wanted to add darts to the back and shape the waist more than it was in the original draft, but retain the yoke and other aspects that attracted me to the dress to begin with:


I started my alterations by tracing a size 46. I then used the pattern that I drafted for the tunic that I recently made to add two large vertical darts to the back. I also used that same pattern to taper the sides. I had recently picked up an orange stretch cotton that I had purchased to make a shirt, but decided it was too heavy for the project that I wanted to use it for, so I used it for a muslin of this dress:


Here are the darts that I added to the back:


The pattern also included front bust darts that I left unchanged:


The one thing that I did have problems with with this pattern was that the sleeve cap was impossible to ease. If you look at the technical drawing, the sleeve caps are not supposed to be gathered, but no matter how many lines of ease stitching I put in, I could NOT get them to ease. I will cut down the sleeve cap for the next version, but for this one I put small gathers along the top of the sleeve:


I don't dislike it. I think it is a nice feminine detail on a dress with very many masculine aspects...back yoke, stand collar, curved hem. Overall, I am very happy with the fit of the dress, and if I find the blue and white oxford that I am looking for, I will make a second version.

The second project that I completed this weekend was the BurdaStyle JJ #6609 shirt from a free downloaded pattern. I had downloaded and taped this pattern together well over a year ago, but then never traced it off. So, last weekend I had started on it, and then it sat all week because finishing it would require that I rethread the serger with a different color. And since I am very, very lazy, I managed to put that off for quite some time. But, here is the finished shirt:


I made it from a dotted swiss purchased from Fabric.com. I left off the ruffles called for by the pattern, as I thought in combination with the puffy sleeves that ruffles would make it just a bit too twee for me:

I do like the puff sleeves:


And both the front and back are shaped with shoulder princess seams:


I had a heck of a time finding buttons to match this shirt. I finally found some inexpensive plastic buttons that matched the color fairly well, but since I didn't like the little details on the top of the button, I flipped them over and sewed them with their flat back showing instead:


My final project this weekend was to trace my vintage pattern for the reunion dress. I took all the pattern pieces out and ironed them...only to find that the pattern is missing the back bodice!! Oh, well...I can draft a back bodice, I'll just have to make my best guess on the armscye.

I also managed to squeeze in hemming a set of draperies for my brother-in-law. He is visiting this weekend, and brought with him a pair of drapes that were about 12 inches too long, so that was a simple fix. He came down to help my husband do some work on the gutters and downspouts. This morning he came down the stairs and announced "We are going outside to climb ladders and play in the dirt." And I pointed out that for men, being 35 wasn't really that much different from being 10. He said "Nope. And later we're going to eat pizza and play video games." So uncomplicated.

19 comments:

KID, MD said...

Way cute! I like the mods you made to that dress. I really liked the idea of a menswear inspired shirtdress too, but was put off by the total lack of shaping. Go you for totally fixing that!! Your JJ is adorable and the color is amazing.

becki-c said...

It looks fabulous with those alterations, good thinking.
Those sleeves on that shirt at really, really cute! I might have to try that pattern.

Serendipity Handmade + Vintage said...

These are very cute! I love your color choices.

My machine is in the shop. I went over 2 months without sewing, preferring to crochet, and now that I actually have projects cut out and ready to sew...no machine. Ironic, no?

Seeing your cute dress and top make me want to sew all that much more!

Omega said...

I really like the shirt dress, I think the modifications were a good idea, very cute. Really cute blouse also. Nice Spring pieces.

Sarah C said...

Super cute! Congrats on your new creations.

gwensews said...

Those are both terrific pieces. The colors are vibrant and perfect for spring/summer. Love that tangerine dress!

Unknown said...

Wow, what a weekend! Great minds think alike on that top, fantastic color if I do say so myself!

Skitzo Leezra Studio said...

Read a blog by someone who had 2 sergers so she could have one with dark thread and the other with light. I understand that now that I have a serger.

The shirt dress in blue/white shirting will be great. You could even use striped grosgrain ribbon on the back of the placket OR lengthen the sleeves to have a faux shirt cuff with Liberty of London print lining . .sorry, I get carried away when considering preppy details.

Linda T said...

The back darts in the dress--great idea. Love that dotted swiss blouse. If you would like to have some mother of pearl buttons to go on it, let me know (leave me a comment on my blog) and I'll send you the number you need. I came across a good deal the other day and I have plenty.

Faye Lewis said...

Wow! That was a really great sewing weekend. Love your new shirt waist dress.

Angela said...

That is a productive weekend! Great job!

Sue said...

You have been busy - love both the items but particularly the blue shirt!

EmilyKate said...

A VERY productive weekend, indeed! I like your little gathers on the Burda dress, I agree that they are a nice little feminine detail! I tend to choose patterns for shirts for myself that have, if not a full puff, a least a bit of a gather, for that reason.
Thanks for the heads up on mens shirt patterns on my blog btw. the 'John Candy' shirt was a McCalls. I just realised I'm bound to have one or two mens shirt patterns in my Burda back issues so I might try that, if not, I'ss check out Kwik Sew :o)

Mary Nanna said...

The orange and turquiose are stunning colour choices and I like both your puffed sleeves, intentional and not!

I do find that Burda put very high sleeve caps on their sleeve. It does make for excellent forward reach as the whole shoulder has good movement but man oh man are they hard to set.

What a busy weekend -and gloriously productive- hemming and all!

Heather said...

I love the bright colors! The turquoise top it just lovely. I've always loved dotted swiss!

Sheila said...

Lovely shirt dress and in most cases I always need to put in back & front darts.

amber said...

The dress and the top are great. Such fun colors for spring and adding darts to the dress is such a good idea. I hope you find your menswear fabric soon so you can whip up another dress. :)

Kim said...

Love them! Sorry I didn't respond to your email, I've been so busy then gone for a long weekend. I keep wanting to make the JJ blouse too.

Eugenia said...

I am so in awe of your productiveness! You've got two beautifully made garments there - I love them both. Your colour choices are gorgeous, perfect for summer.