So, what are your thoughts on muslins? A key step in any sewing? Something to be avoided at all costs? I'll do one if I have to?
When I first started sewing, I knew nothing of muslins. I thought...these are my measurements...if I sew this size, then of course it will fit. If it looks wonky, then clearly this is not a style for me. Until I discovered that using that method, only about one pattern in 20 was "for me."
As I became more involved in PatternReview.com, and started to follow a number of sewing blogs, I discovered things like fitting...and tissue fitting...and muslining. If you are like me, and have extensive fitting issues, you are probably used to making muslins. But, if you are new to sewing or don't have fit difficulties you may be somewhat more averse to sewing a garment twice. When I first started making muslins, I was frustrated at the idea of having "make the garment twice," but now I rarely attempt a new pattern without one, unless I am using a "TNT" pattern to check fit.
One of the main things that muslins are utilized for is refining fit. However, a quick muslin will also help determine whether or not a particular style will be flattering to your body shape. I have used them for both purposes, but usually use them for fitting.
Besides muslins, there are a number of ways that people go about fitting. I have used simple flat pattern measurements (to get a place to start), but to do that you already have to have a pretty good idea about how you like your clothes to fit, and what to expect from particular styles. I see flat pattern measurements as a way to establish a starting point, from which alterations will take place. To make good use of flat pattern measurements, you have to already know what your wearing ease preferences are.
Wearing ease is something that varies from person to person. For example, I have found that where pants are concerned, I like less than one inch of ease at the waist and high hip. Some people find that to be constricting and uncomfortable, but more ease feels floppy and gapey to me. However, at the bust, I need no less than three inches of ease for a button-down shirt, otherwise the buttons gape. Knits, I leave zero ease or negative ease at the bust, depending on the style and the nature of the knit I am sewing with. Examples of clothes that have negative ease are leggings, exercise clothing made from performance fabrics, stretch jeans, and yoga pants.
Beyond flat pattern measurements, there is tissue fitting. Palmer/Pletsch is BIG on tissue fitting. And I despise tissue fitting. First off, I always feel like I am going to inhale and burst out of my paper garment like The Incredible Hulk. Second, it seems like it takes just as long and just as much effort to do a paper fitting as it does to just cut out a muslin. Third, even if I can get the paper to fit around me, half the times I find a dozen other problems once I make the garment because paper doesn't behave like fabric. Many of the folds and pulls that you find in a pair of pants won't appear during a paper fitting because the paper basically stands up on its own.
So, my preference is the actual sewn muslin. Sometimes I will do a quick muslin or even a partial muslin, for example, just a bodice of a dress, to make sure that everything fits. Other times I will make muslin after muslin...adding ease, moving darts, shifting bits and pieces around....such as when I work with vintage patterns, which you not only have to alter to fit, but also alter to accommodate the modern physique, unaltered by layers of control garments.
However, the muslin of actual muslin is a rarity for me. This is where I diverge from most muslin-makers. When I make "muslins" I will usually sew the entire garment from a less expensive fabric...finishing it as if it were the final product. The reason for this is that I have time and again sewn a muslin (of muslin), agonized over fit, slashed, marked, altered, and then sewn the final garment and HATED it.
Why? Why would that happen? Because how a garment fits standing in front of a mirror...and how a garment WEARS are two different things.
For example, the garment may look lovely standing still, with shoulders back and gut sucked in, in front of the fitting room mirror...but half way into the first day of wearing it, I may find I am tugging at the collar or the waistband has ridden up alarmingly. Sometimes this is the fault of the fabric, sometimes the pattern, and sometimes just me. Some examples of issues that I have encountered in WEARING that were not found in muslining are as follows:
- A large, open collared shirt from Burda that rode up like a vampire's cape during the day
- A pencil skirt that spun around while I walked
- A double-layer ruched dress that when combined with tights managed to climb halfway up my thighs during the day
- A wrap dress in which the waist sash popped up over my belly every time I sat down
- A pair of jeans in which the waistband distorted and grew by at least 3 inches during the day (in spite of being interfaced, and cut on the lengthwise grain as opposed to the bias)
But for me, the MUSLIN is a finished garment. One could call it a "wearable muslin," although I am loathe to do so as sometimes I discover that the garment is actually unwearable. It also gives me a chance to practice techniques, such as welt pockets, topstitching, particular seam finishes, etc. But most of all, it gives me an opportunity to "test drive" a garment and decide what I like or don't like about it.
For example, I recently purchased the Hot Patterns Riviera Boulevard Cardigan pattern. I had concerns about the shape of the cardigan and intended to lengthen that jacket overall, and also taper the waist. I also worried that the multiple layers of knit at the pockets, lapels, etc., would not lie right. So I decided that I would make a muslin, from a fleece that would approximate my sweater knit:
Making the pattern out of a fabric that approximated what I would use for the final garment allows me to test certain aspects of the fabric. For example I decided to make the pocket bags out of a lightweight knit to limit the thickness of the fabrics:
I also found that the fabrics were much too thick to use my buttonholer, and instead added snaps:
So, what did I find when I "test drove" my finished muslin? One, I found that with the multiple layers of heavy knit at the front of the cardigan, it was INCREDIBLY HOT.
I also found that I really disliked the 1/2 length sleeves with the decorative plackets and the buttons. For one, I think that 1/2 length sleeves are not that flattering, especially with a longer sleeve underneath. Second, I whacked those buttons right at elbow height on doorways, chair arms, everything that I could possibly catch them on during the day:
So, what did I learn from my muslin?
- I will lengthen the sleeves from 1/2 length to 3/4 or full length in the final version
- I will eliminate the faux placket and the button
- The cardigan needs lengthened further and tapered under the arms, across the back, and at the waist
- I will eliminate the pocket flaps on the chest. My bust is large enough that the little flaps stick straight out and I had to stitch them down. Plus, eliminating them will save some additional thickness at the seams.
It is for this reason that I, more often than not, do not make muslins for fit, but muslins for wearability.
I would love to hear your thoughts on muslins!
14 comments:
For years and years I just dove into a project, figuring that if there were any fitting issues, I would solve them as I went along. I don't have as many fitting problems as a lot of people do, so in that way I'm lucky. I found that I also managed to steer clear of "problem patterns". My first inkling that I really should be paying more attention to fitting came with the popularity of the sheath dress, that really does have to fit like a glove in order for it to look good. I finally caved and started making the odd muslin - but only if I really think that there is going to be a problem. Well, that and now that I am actually branching out to try patterns from various companies whose measurement standards deviate from what I'm used to. I applaud you for taking the time to really try out a pattern and style - it does ensure that you will be happy with the "final" results.
Great post. The closet I've come to a muslin was after partially sewing a corduroy jacket, only to realize I had cut the pieces in opposite directions and decided to continue with it to make sure of fit. Other than that I don't muslin. To tweak a garment for a closer fit I will use darts or remove excess fabric in the seams.
I am the Muslin Queen with crown appropriately muslined before wearing. Since I am still searching for the ever elusive well-fitting woven top/jacket, I make muslins all the time. For four years (!) now, I have gone through countless yards of fabric trying to fit my bodice. Once the bodice fits, I have an issue with sleeves.
I won't quit because I am determined to get this right, though I have to say that making muslins consumes a great deal of time and produces results that are often disappointing.
I did a review of the garments I made this year. So far, I counted 20 that get regular wearing time. I counted 25 patterns that were muslined at least once each - some were muslined four or five times. It is frustrating to see that I put so much time and effort into making muslins when I have few wearable garments for which to show. Of the 25 patterns that tested, only three (3!!) turned into garments that are wearable.
Like I said before, I refuse to give up. I know I am learning a lot about fit; I just want some clothes to reflect that.
In '06 when I started sewing again after a 13 year hiatus, I didn't even know what a muslin was. I had found out about all the help one could get via the internet and there were lots of people talking about muslining. As dumb as it made me feel at the time,I had to ask about it. After being in the sewing areana now for four years, and finally admitting that my body is not the same as it use to be when I could just sew a size 12 or 14 straight out the envelope, musling has become a regular part of my sewing arsenal.
I make muslins for all first time woven jacket, dress, skirt and pant patterns. I tend to trust my fitting skills with knits more than my skills for wovens; as I find knits to be more forgiving or easier to fit.
I keep telling myself that I do much too much work on muslins. I.E., I've been known to add facings, pockets, collars, hems, and even shoulder pads to muslins that I know won't be wearable. I guess I do this because like you, I can get a much better idea of the all around fit of the garment and whether I actually like the style or not.
I also do muslins to make sure I can handle the pattern construction especially if it involves a technique that I've never approached before.
Muslins do take up time, but they also save me "fashion fabric".
I do wish I could make myself do "quick and dirty" muslins, and thus save myself a lot of time.
Several years ago I got my hands on a bunch of king sized sheets from a hotel that was changing them out. They have come in so very handy for muslins. My sheet stash is getting pretty low after 4 years of muslins, but I'm sure I'll come up with some other thrifty means of muslining before they are all gone.
I've started making more muslins, but I'm not fantantical about it. Sometimes I only go as far as pinning the muslin pieces together to check the fit. I'm lucky that Burda coats and tops (with a modest neckline) fit me without much adjustment. Not so dresses. McCalls never fits, Vogue does. Love your hot pattern jacket. I've had my eye on this, but hot patterns are so expensive to buy in Australia.
I make a muslin because I have fitting issues and I'm still learning sewing techniques. Sure, I would love to just dive in with a pattern but I've ended up with too many wadders when I did it.
I am totally with you on tissue fitting! I do make muslins on anything that is more complicated or made out of expensive fabrics, sometimes 'wearable' muslins. I do also agree that wearing a garment is more the test than just trying it on in front of the mirror. Great post!
I am a mixed muslin maker. I tissue fit everything and then if I am unsure of fit or if I am using a very expensive fabric I will make a muslin. I like real muslin. I like to mark it up with sharpy and make notes on it. I do find that the fabric will be a bit different but that's still the case with cheap fabric as opposed to good. A case in point is your fleece jacket. I've made the Boulevard and it's my favorite cardigan. A good knit is going to sew up very differently than fleece. I made it from a wool and cashmere blend that while not a true double knit is very stable. It doesn't have the loft of fleece so buttonholes are fine. I left off the upper flaps because like you I didn't think that my bust needed any extra bulk. I love the sleeve plackets and think that they are a nice design feature. However, and I am making this again in a red wool double knit, I am adding hem allowances so that I can make real plackets at the sleeves. I only tissue fit mine and maybe because I've been doing it for 20 years I have a better idea of what I am going to get. Regardless of how you fit your patterns, at least you don't expect it to fit you perfectly right out of the envelope and then blame it on the pattern when it doesn't fit you. So many new sewers forget that when you go shopping for rtw you try on a lot of things to find what fits and looks good on you. Your muslin equates to all that trying on and lets face it, that's a time consuming project in itself. Maybe even more time than sewing a muslin!
Excellent post! I loathe making muslins which is why I've persevered with tissue-fitting. I absolutely hated tissue-fitting when I first tried it but I've kept on going because I've started to reap the benefits now with better fitting clothing. I've found that if you use tissue paper vs stronger paper the tissue will mold to your shape beautifully. I've tried lots of different papers but the softer the paper, the better the fit. Also adding the extra-wide seam allowances is a good idea and measuring the flat pattern and comparing to my measurements.
That said, with a really important garment I would 'test' it first, after tissue-fitting, with a fabric I could use as a wearable muslin hopefully, and possibly even actual muslin if it were an exceptionally important garment.
Much of what you wrote is the same as my own story. Tissue fitting seems like a good idea, and the P/P ladies make it seem SO easy! However, I think that working alone makes it more of a challenge, Lady Hulk undoubtedly makes an appearance when I try. While muslining takes more time, I've come to terms with it just being part of the process, a learning opportunity and a way to avoid more costly mistakes further down the line. I'm finding knits to be a bit more forgiving in terms of fitting, not requiring such extensive muslining, but the quality of the actual knit plays a bigger role.
And thanks to you! Some of your muslining and subsequent blogging has answered questions or alerted me to issues ahead of time.
Not only the fashion fabric is worth something. My time is money too. If I found myself making multiple versions of a muslin before I started on the real thing, I think I would just do a bit of overtime and go and buy something gorgeous instead! Or find a tailor.
I do exactly what you do, with the addition that I practice new techniques on scraps even before doing them on the "beta version."
Hatty
I always wanted a get-it-done-quick finish. As my body has changed, so has my opinion of what "fit" is, so I do now make many more "wearable" muslins (I can always use new PJs if nothing else). Since I trace my patterns off onto something the Joann's folks helped me locate, I can trace, pin it together and try it on, cut it apart, add bits, move bits, until I'm happy. This has been working good, especially with a helpful daughter who will tell me where it's pulling in the back (or it could be she likes those custom Ts?). When I'm working with knits, I'll do some flat pattern changes based off measurements and make some adjustments, then I'll buy some cheap sale knit and test sew a wearable, most of the time anyways. I do have a Vogue dress that when I made tissue adjustments for measurements ended up way too big, for which I wish I'd made a wearable muslin. I did some research and think I know how to fix the pattern (which means starting from a smaller size and adjusting up), but I'm still learning. Too bad Walmart's 1.00 selection is going to 1.50 and 2.00 a yard. Sometimes the budget just doesn't have enough for test fabric and the good fabric, too.
I'm still making muslins for pants. Maybe I'll get them down if I keep working at it.
I've missed your posts. Hope all is well in your world!
I do like you do and make wearable muslins. I have made a few muslins that were just cut up old sheets to see if something fit before cutting a special fabric but usually the first garment is the muslin.
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