I started the process by tracing the pattern exactly, and then doing flat pattern measurements. started by adding 3 inches of tissue above the bust dart (I repeated this on the back) to lower the bust point and lengthen the bodice:
I then slashed the pattern vertically, and added a triangle of tissue to add one inch in width (for 4 inches total, front and back) at the waist:
I also slashed the skirt vertically and added the same amount of tissue there:
The muslin looked like this:
The first thing that clearly needed changed was the length and shape of the skirt. It was too long, and looked really frumpy, and it also needed tapered towards the hem. To fix this, I folded out 3 inches of tissue above the kickpleat and tapered by about 1 inch (for 4 inches total, 2 front pieces and 2 back pieces).
Second, you can see the fold above the bust that is more pronounced than it should be, even given that the bodice has kimono sleeves. I also needed to lift the waistline slightly:
Overall the front was pretty close. The back, however, was a disaster!!
I started by pinning up the shoulders, and that took care of some of the issues, and partially decreased the extra fabric in the back:
To repair the bodice issues, I took in bodice sides above waist by 3/4 inch, tapering to armpit. I then narrowed back above darts by 1/2 inch on each piece. I also shortened the center back by slashing and overlapping the tissue, the side seams correct length, but center back was bagging. I also lifted shoulder by 1 1/2 inch, tapering out towards shoulder curve, and increase circumference of each sleeve. Here are the changes illustrated on each pattern piece:
And here is the altered bodice:
There are still some creases in the shoulder/arm pit area, but that is a fact of life with kimono sleeves. They even have creases included in the pattern illustration! But, the fit so far is really good. Hopefully tomorrow I will have a chance to work on the skirt.
5 comments:
Wow, looks like a lot of work, but the fit in the top is spot on! Love the color, too!
This is so helpful! I was recently trying to fit a muslin that had many of the same issues as yours. I ended up throwing it away after multiple attempts. This makes me want to try again. My biggest issue was how to pin the back myself. I'm still not sure how to do that. Did you have help?
Good luck with your project. I remember girdles and pointy bras very well. I wore them. Ouch!
Thank you for the encouragement everyone! And Denise, I had help from my husband in pinning the back but since the dress has an invisible zipper, I would have just switched it from a back zipper to a side zipper if I didn't have help. I don't have any trouble twisting to pin a side seam. And invisible zippers can go into any seam.
I will say, though, that the best tool in fitting is a digital camera. There are things that show up with the use of the flash that I don't see in the mirror, and I can study an image in ways that I can't in the mirror. I just set the camera on timer and kick the cats out of the way.
Hey, this last version is looking really good! I agree with you about the camera--I can think things looks just fine and then take a photo----and back to the drawing board. Congrats on all your hard work. The final is going to be super!
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