Tuesday, March 30, 2010

Kwik Sew 2777

Recently I purchased a copy of Kwik Sew 2777 to make a shirt for my husband. Unfortunately, I did not have my husband around for fitting! As some of you know, my husband is a professional musician, and for the entire month of March he was on tour. I was left to my own devices...and spent most of my time in the sewing room.


I had been wanting to try to sew some shirts for him, since he has particular tastes and fitting issues. Since he wasn't there for me to fit, I decided that I would use one of the shirts that he has practically worn out to figure out the size. Based on flat pattern measurements, I sewed him a large and now that he's home I can finally see how the fit worked out. I am really pleased with how close the fit is right out of the envelope:



As you can see, I could stand to both shorten it and widen it slightly over the hips, but the shoulders fit very well:


Shoulders and sleeves are always an issue with him because he plays the upright bass, and the way he stands when he plays makes the fabric pull across his shoulders. He also likes the sleeves to be a bit long and loose for freedom of movement:


You might notice that I made a mistake in the front of the shirt...when I laid out the pattern, I was not paying proper attention and while I got the right front aligned with the stripes, the left front is just....slightly....off:


If you look, you can see that wide light stripe angles towards the button placket. Some interesting things about this pattern, it is drafted with 1/4" seam allowances. I had to pay really close attention and remind myself as I sewed, because I am used to sewing with 5/8" allowances. But, the narrower seam allowances made the collar and collar stand a lot easier to work with. One odd thing though was the way that the sleeve plackets/gauntlets were constructed. It was unlike anything that I could find on any shirt in Jeremy's closet:


Since I wanted this to look as much like RTW as possible, I redrafted the plackets using the instructions posted on the Off The Cuff blog. I had to do a little tweaking, as mine ended up a touch wide, but I am very happy with how they look...very nearly there!



I am really happy with how this shirt turned out. Some minor adjustments and I will have a real winner for him!

In the meantime, I have a few things that I would like to make for myself now that the weather is getting nicer. I love this dress from the April, 2010 Burda:


I think it is a great warm-weather dress, and could be really versatile, although I will redraft the back to have darts and contour the waist, because otherwise the dress is pretty shapeless:

But, to make the shirtdress that is currently residing in my head, I need to find some classic men's oxford fabric, like this:


Wouldn't that be a fantastic dress?? Yes, of course it would! But thus far the only oxford cloth that I can find is >50% polyester...and a poly dress kind of defeats the purpose of a "breezy summer dress" since poly doesn't breathe. I will continue looking for just the perfect fabric. Hopefully I will find it before the summer runs out!

16 comments:

Julia said...

I really should make my husband a shirt!

Sue said...

I love the fabric in your husband's shirt! I would never know it wasn't RTW if you hadn't shown us!

gwensews said...

I like the striped fabric. Very nice. Sewing for hubby makes an awesome good wife!

Sheila said...

You did a great job and now adding KS2777 to my to sew list.

Melody said...

Funny you bring up that dress because I was considering making it in grey oxford cloth I just bought from Fashion Fabrics Club. I had to sort through probably 600+ fabrics but I found a couple of winners. I'll see if I can find the link to it. I may still have the receipt in my email.

Melody said...

I can't find it and I can't find the exact fabric on FFC, but they do have other colors in 100% cotton

KID, MD said...

I just got that pattern for Mitch, so I'm glad to see that you had such good results from it. I have yet to make him a dress shirt that he loves. Men are so hard to sew for! I love your plans for that burda dress!! It's one of my favorites from this month's issue. I hope you can find that Oxford cloth!

Eugenia said...

Oh goodness I hope my DH doesn't read your post because he is going to want a gorgeous shirt like that. You've done a wonderful job - lucky husband! I think that Burda shirt dress will be great in a classic oxford fabric - good luck in finding something nice.

Karin (the mrs) said...

Great shirt you made for your husband. I promised my love I'd make him a shirt a long time ago.. and still didn't. *shame* I really should one of these days.

I love the fabric you picked for the dress you want to make. I wanted to say I'd look out for that fabric for you, but I guess you wouldn't really be helped with an address in the Netherlands. :-)

I can't wait to see your version of that dress!

Tee said...

I love the striped fabric, but would have laid the yoke so that the stripes were horizontal. Most ready to wear shirts are done that way. Other than that, you did a great job. Where did you get the fabric?

Kim said...

Great shirts! I told my hubby no way I was making him shirts. I really want to make that shirtdress too. Are you thinking about some fisheye darts in the front and back, along with the bust dart? I'd need to dart it as well so I didn't look like a box. I bought some linen chambray from EOS. I also bought some shirting from Gorgeous Fabrics. Sadly, I think both are sold out.

amber said...

That is a really great fit right out of the envelope! Nice work!

Michelle said...

Thanks Everyone!! Tee, I got the shirting at Fashion Fabric Club: http://www.fashionfabricsclub.com/catalog_itemdetail.aspx?ItmID=YY430 although I am not sure if this is really the same one, because the one I have has a little lycra in it, and this one is labelled 100% cotton (although it wouldn't be the first time FFC had mislabeled something!!). Kim, I was thinking of doing the same thing that I had done with the tunic shirt I just made, shaping the front using the bust darts and then contouring the side seams; and then adding darts to the back. Alternately, I could cut the back in two pieces like with that Burda safari dress I made, and contour in at the center back. I think I'm leaning towards long darts, though. I'll probably whip up a muslin.

Heather said...

That shirt looks great! My husband could sure use some work shirts....hmmm.

Serendipity Handmade + Vintage said...

His shirt looks great! I love the fabric too! My husband requested a couple of shirts too, but my skills aren't quite up to tailoring yet. I'll keep that pattern in mind though.

Linda T said...

Fabulous job on the shirt! And, you are right, the fit it almost perfect! I'll bet he is very happy!