Friday, October 1, 2010

Wherein I Actually Plan Ahead...

Last weekend I spent a full day cleaning out my closet and getting rid of anything that didn't fit, wasn't flattering, or hadn't been worn in at least a year. I decided that there would be no hanging on to something because either a) I made it or b) it cost a lot if it didn't fit, flatter, or appeal. In the end I had 3 giant trash bags of things to give away, and in looking at what was left and what was leaving, there were a couple things apparent:
  1. While I tend to buy and sew a lot of crazy prints, I tend to wear mainly solids or very subtle prints (stripes, or tone on tone).
  2. Although I sew a lot of dresses, I wear mostly pants and tops.
  3. I tend to layer, preferring cardigans to jackets.
  4. Shirts/dresses with princess seams are more flattering and get worn more than shirts/dresses with darts.
  5. All the staples in my wardrobe are gray, black, and white
Given this, I decided that for my fall/winter sewing, I was going to both Shop, and Sew With a Plan...something that anyone who knows me knows I never do. I always thought, "oh, it's too restrictive, I just wan to sew what I want to sew." But where has that gotten me? 3 trashbags full of clothes for the Goodwill.

So, I am going to take a page from Carolyn and Ruthie and actually create a set of coordinates that can be interchanged (I like to think of it as Garanimals, but for Grown-Ups). Based on what was left in my closet when I was done with it, I decided that I would use the following colors:
  1. Black
  2. Grey
  3. White
  4. Plum
  5. Lavender
  6. Orchid
Using this as a guideline, I selected the following fabrics (click on the photo to enlarge):


This is a combination that I think will do well for both work, as well as the weekend. Here is a list of what I have:
  1. Dark heather gray wool jersey, $10.20 per yard, from Fashion Fabrics Club
  2. Wool blend flannel, $4.89 per yard, from Fashion Fabrics Club
  3. Periwinkle charmeuse, $4.04 per yard, from Fashion Fabrics Club
  4. Grey/black print charmeuse, $4.04 per yard, from Fashion Fabrics Club
  5. Black and grey herringbone suiting, $6.37 per yard, from Fashion Fabrics Club
  6. White jersey knit, $4.46 per yard, from Fashion Fabrics Club
  7. Purple jersey knit with diamond pattern, $4.21 per yard, from Fashion Fabrics Club
  8. Purple/ivory cotton shirting, $3.61 per yard, from Fashion Fabrics Club
  9. Heather gray knit, $4.21 per yard, from Fashion Fabrics Club
  10. Silk Tweed suiting, $7.98 per yard, from Fabric.com
  11. Plum jersey knit, $3.98 per yard, from Fabric.com
  12. Black jersey knit, $3.98 per yard, from Fabric.com
  13. Black boiled wool knit, $11.98 per yard, from Fabric.com
  14. Orchid stretch shirting, $1.95 per yard, from Hancock's Fabric
  15. Plum and orchid striped jersey, $3.95 per yard, from Hancock's Fabric
  16. Gray cashmere wool suiting, $32.50 per yard, from B Black and Sons
Ultimately, I have enough fabric for at least 16 separate garments. I am going to focus on tops and pants, but also have some fabric for at least one dress and one jacket. So here are my plans...

Tops:

For tops I have two different types of fabrics, knit and woven. For the woven tops, the fabrics are an ivory and purple striped cotton (left), that has the feel of an organdy and has a bit of a sheen. The orchid cotton (center) has a bit of lycra, and the final two (periwinkle and black/grey pattern) are both poly charmeuse.


So, what are my plans for these? The two cottons will be princess seamed blouses, using a pattern like McCalls 6124. I am considering a pussy-bow blouse, of which there are about a hundred patterns for in Burda Style, for the black and grey. The perwinkle will be a fitted blouse with pearl snaps, almost in the style of a western shirt.


The rest of the fabrics for shirts are all knits:


The knits are all rayon/lycra or cotton/lycra blends, and all have a nice drape. Given this, I would like to use the dark purple, white, or gray for one of the Hot Patterns 3 Graces tops:


The rest will be either long-sleeved tees or turtlenecks. The light purple has a diamond pattern woven into it:


So I will need to find a pattern that will work well with that. Perhaps something like Butterick 5283:



Bottoms:

For the bottoms, I have all wool or silk. For the silk tweed suiting (the one with little purple threads in it), I will make a lined pencil skirt, something like McCalls 5523:

For the remainder of the fabrics, I will make pants using my TNT pants pattern, that began its life as a pants pattern from the July, 2009 issue of Burda. Unfortunately, their website is a complete disaster, so I can't link it, but this is the line drawing:


Dresses:

I know that the last thing that I need is another dress, but I have really been wanting to make the Hot Patterns Plain and Simple Iconic Shirtdress:


I was able to get a really nice wool/lycra jersey from FFC, it is much lighter weight than a sweater knit, so will be very nice for this dress without being too heavy:


Outerwear:

Finally, I got a length of a boiled wool knit. It does not have very much stretch so I might use it for a kind of unstructured jacket:


I like the looks of the Hot Patterns Riviera Boulevard Cardigan-Jacket, but it is described as a "gentle A-line shape," which in a jacket I do not think would be very flattering on me.


Therefore, I may use it for something with more shaping, like Vogue 7975, it has princess seams so I can tailor it:


Because the knit is a boiled wool, there is very little stretch, so I might be able to get away with using it for the jacket. If I get really fancy, I can put a little braid around the edge.

So there you have it...my first attempt at Sewing With a Plan...or, Garanimals for Grown-Ups. Maybe if I get through this set this winter, I can put a little purple monkey label in all of them...and then next year, they all get a giraffe. That way, I will know what matches what.

Wish me luck! I hope I can stick to the plan!

18 comments:

Unknown said...

Good luck! You are so organized and productive, I know that you'll have this project knocked out in no time!

Heather said...

Wow! This looks really great. Very inspiring. I did a clean out awhile ago and didn't have much left! It's still slim pickin's in there, let me tell ya! I love the SWAP idea. I just need to sit down and do it!

Patty said...

Fascinating, and I can't wait to see these garments come to life!

Big in Japan said...

Impressive plan! Wardrobe changeover/cleanout is on my list for this weekend too.

Faye Lewis said...

Now that's what I call sewing with a plan. It must have taken you some time to put this together, and it must be really nice to have all the fabric for 16 garments on hand already. Will be checking on your fall sewing.

Mary Nanna said...

oh yes very best of luck, even if you get only a few things made on your plan it'll be a few things you know will work for you.

It's so difficult when you sew for pleasure and sew for clothes to wear. The two don't always cross paths , as I well know. That's when I let myself buy things I have no interest in sewing.

If it gets too much and you find yourself following flights of fancy, there's nothing lost, so go for it!

Anonymous said...

Your plan sounds wonderful and I love the colours you have chosen. Looking forward to seeing it all come together.

Kim said...

Congrats on you plan! I sew like you, kind of willy nilly, but tried a plan last year. I made things that coordinated but didn't end up wearing half of them. This year I cut out pictures, like an old fashioned collage, put it up in my sewing room and am sewing from that for inspiration. I have several of the same patterns planned as you, the Burda pants are a TNT for me too. I made them out of "All you need is RPL" from Gorgeous Fabrics and wore the heck out of them. I have that Butterick shirt planned and the Vogue jacket too. I hope I get to all of it. I love the colors you chose too. I find I have a ton of grey in my closet too.

Cyndi said...

I loved your Garanimals reference, with the monkey and giraffe tags! Too funny! Unfortunately,I am so forgetful these days it would probably be a good idea for me. I pull out my clothes for a new season and I can't remember what I wore it with last year. At least it forces me to look for new "outfits" within my closet.

Beangirl said...

Oooo, this is fun! (Especially since I don't have to stick to it). Can't wait to see everything!

knitmachinequeen (KMQ) said...

I am impressed. I need to do the same thing. Weight loss has it's disadvantages and having nothing to wear is one of them. I made my first pair of pants since my 25lb weight loss. I used my paper tape pattern that you provided the instructions for. Good starting point but I'm smaller now that I was then so they are too big! I think you have inspired me to clean out my closet too. Wish me luck. On the SWAP...not so much.

Carolyn (Diary of a Sewing Fanatic) said...

First - don't think of it as a plan. You won't lose interest in it as fast.

Second - make some coordinating pieces first - like a blouse and a pair of pants. That way you will want to make the coordinating cardigan to go with it to complete the outfit.

Third - be determined! Determined to stick with it...determined to have the garments you want in your wardrobe...determined!

Finally - don't be mad at yourself if you sew something in between these garments. I made a couple of dresses and a jacket that wasn't associated with my SWAP so that I would keep the creative juices flowing. Just come back to your plan.

And can I make a fabric suggestion:

http://store.sawyerbrook.com/Brittany/productinfo/10-0904/

This piece incorporates all of the colors you are using and I thought of it right away when I saw your choices. It's $18 a yard but its from Sawyer Brook so the quality will be excellent and it would be a great piece to add some punch to the collection.

Okay - I'm done with the suggestions but I will be on the sidelines cheering you on!!!

Eugenia said...

I am SO impressed with your plan (I wish I had a plan as good as this!). I really love all the fabrics that you have picked out, they look beautiful laid out togther like that - just think how amazing they are going to look when they are hanging in your wardrobe as lovely garments!

Linda T said...
This comment has been removed by the author.
Linda T said...

I wish I could bring myself to do what you are doing...I'm still a bit (or maybe alot) ADD with my sewing jumping from here to there with whatever "inspiration" strikes a the moment. I also like to make dresses, but I just don't wear them often--to church is about all. Otherwise, it's slacks or jeans--that's just my retired life! Looking forward to following your journey!

Jana said...

LOL! Funny story for you. My dad is colorblind, and LOVES granimals. So much so that he made me spend an afternoon going through his closet, making sets, and marking all of the tags. Now THATS granimals for grown ups!

I'm liking your SWAP fabrics, what are you starting on first!?

Brooke said...

Wow! Good for you for getting organized. I'm the same way with the big patterns - I love buying fabric that's big and bright and cheerful, and then I make clothes that make me look banana-cakes crazy.

Hey, about Vogue 7975 - be sure to muslin it, particularly the sleeves, first. I used to never muslin, but the sleeves on that jacket were way too tight for my arms.

I looked up the pattern reviews later on sewing.patternreview.com and didn't see anyone talk about the sleeves, but then I was making a size 20 when everyone else was making 8s, 10s, or 12s. So maybe the grading is a little off in the upper sizes (or maybe I screwed it up, totally possible).

Anyway, good on ya, and good luck with the Chanel jacket. Totally with you on the princess seams.

SewRuthie said...

Looks really comprehensive (though a lot of grey?) lets hope it all comes out how you expect! I shall be looking forward to seeing the garments as they appear.