Yesterday and today I finished cutting out the suit fabric and the lining, and today I sewed the lining for the jacket together. Reading through the pattern instructions, I found that they direct you only to line the sleeves of the jacket, and then make binding from the lining for the remainder of the exposed seams. I was not entirely happy with this. I thought that it was silly to go through the trouble of making a lining and then only putting it in the sleeves. So, I decided that I would draft a full lining for the jacket.
It was not difficult, all I did was lay the facing pieces on the jacket front and back and draw their edges directly onto the jacket pieces. I then re-traced the front and back pieces, adding a 5/8 inch seam allowance to the line I drew indicating the edge of the facing.
Here is the finished jacket lining:
The next issue is to deal with is the collar. According to the pattern image, the collar is upright:
The instructions indicate that both sides of the collar should be interfaced, but I am not positive that given the weight of the fabric that the interfacing that I have will hold the collar up like that. I am considering using a lightweight hair canvas that I have leftover from another project. I have a ton of the boucle, I may cut a few collars and put them together with different interfacings to determine which is the best for this project.
I also need to select buttons for the jacket, but I may wait and take the entire jacket to the fabric store, rather than just a swatch. Given all the effort that I am putting into the suit, I don't want to slap any old plastic buttons on it. I am also considering skipping the buttons and doing large snaps instead. But, that is a question for another day. More later...I hope to get the jacket shell done tomorrow.
8 comments:
I can't believe a designer pattern doesn't have a full lining!! I can't wait to see the finished suit. It's going to be awesome!
This is going to turn out great!!! I cannot wait to see it finished. I love your fabric!
It certainly makes sense to line the entire jacket. I'm sure you'll be happy with that decision.
As for the collar interfacing... Of course, you could acquire more appropriate interfacing for the effect you want. I wonder, too, if Claire's trapunto stitching would be an option. She wrote about it here: http://clairekennedydesign.typepad.com/the_atelier_of_claire_ken/2010/01/at-lastand-no-im-not-etta-james.html
Thank you for explaining how you created the lining for the rest of the jacket. I'm working on a skirt pattern right now and I think I may just try that technique for the lining. :)
I was reading The Art of Sewing Classic Techniques. One of the chapters in the book was dedicated to using the best techniques in order to achieve classic, long lasting clothes. Often the pattern techniques are usually quick and easy not necessarily the best. The best techniques are a little more time consuming. Adding a linning to the jacket took a little more time; however it will provide you with result that was worth it.
Thank you for the picture of the lining on the dress form with the facings attached. I haven't made a lined jacket for many, many years. The jacket was constructed with the collar and facings before the lining was attached. That seam was very awksard to stitch. Your technique is much smarter.
I also think you will be much happier with a lined jacket and less labor intensive than all the bindings. The gold color of the lining looks really rich with suit fabric.
Lita J
Your jacket is coming along really nicely. I think a full lining is a good idea - especially as you have got such a lovely lining fabric there.
I just cut this jacket out myself! I also thought it odd that a designer pattern would only have the sleeves lined and plan to add a full lining also.
I think you're jacket is coming along nicely. I like the color you choose for the lining.
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