"I like the finished pants, they look nice on you. I also enjoyed the review of your adjustments as I have to make just the same ones. Ignore the pique about the peak in the pants. If a pattern did not have them before I do my adjustments it always does after. But...how do you handle the "peak" you can get raising the back waist? Do tell if you like."
To clarify, these are the adjustments that I have to make. Let's start with a schematic of a standard pants backpiece:
There are three major adjustments that I do. I start by extending the crotch curve, to prevent creases under the buttocks. I also add some width to the exterior of the leg for the same reason. I also slash the back and add a wedge to raise the back waist. I have illustrated my alterations in red:
Many pants also have back pattern pieces that are larger than the front pattern pieces. This is common in Burda patterns, and is also the case with the recent Hot Patterns pant. However, I have noticed that many of the Big 4 patterns have front and back pattern pieces that are of similar sizes. If this is the case, I will cut the front pattern piece in a smaller size and account for this in my back pattern piece. This moves the side seam forward, and creates a slimmer appearance, an important thing for us fluffy girls!
But to return to AnnB's question....how to account for the peak at the back waistband after I add the wedge.
The answer is, I don't.
If I use an unaltered pattern, the size of my bottom causes the waistband to droop, and gives me a case of plumber butt:
To combat this, I add the wedge into the back of the pant, raising the center waistband. Ann asks, how I deal with the peak that this would create in the back waistband.
When adding this wedge, if you add too much, you could very well create a peak, so it is important to not overdo it when you make this alteration. In my case, I add about 1 1/2 inches, since that is about the distance that the center of my waistband droops on an unaltered pant. My alteration provides enough room in the pant to accommodate my rear end, and prevent a full bottom from dragging down the center of the waistband.
Since that drag creates a "U" in the back waistband, my alteration does not create a peak in the back, but simply allows that top edge of the pant to lay horizontally across the back waist. Were I to make a larger wedge, then it would peak rather than lying horizontally, hence the reason that you should be conservative when making this alteration.
Finally, there is one last adjustment that may be necessary depending on the pant in question. Many of us that have to make this wedge alteration have to do so because we have a round bottom, and a waist that is very much smaller than our hips. Because of this, I also may tilt the back seam to prevent "gaposis." Pants with back darts may not require that "tilt," or you can rectify any gaping of the back waistband by increasing the size of the dart.
Here is an example of a pattern with an increased dart:
And here is an example of a pant with the back tilted to fit over the top of the buttocks:
However, I rarely include this in the original alterations unless it is the second time that I am making a pattern. I normally will make this change "on the fly," because I do a lot of trying on while I sew to see if I need to take in side seams or make other alterations.
It is also important to remember when making these adjustments that may change the circumference of the top of the pant, that you will also have to account for this in the waistband. I find it easier to use a waistband with only a center back seam as opposed to a back seam as well as side seams. That means that you don't have to deal with lining up the side seams of the waistband with the side seams of the pant. I use a contoured waistband from an Alice & Olivia pant from vogue that has only a center back seam. I like this one, but because it is a large pattern piece, you do have to account for that when you are purchasing your fabric.
If you have a similar body-type to mine, these alterations will help you to go from this:
To this:
I hope that this information is helpful, and thank you everyone for your comments and questions.
8 comments:
Wow! Awesome!! I always end up with those under-bum drag lines and plumbers crack. I'll be referring to this for my next pair, Thank you so much!!
Thank you so much! I am "fluffy" with a waist a size smaller than my hips, so all this information was very welcomed indeed. Some tips sounded a little tricky for a novice, but others I am sure I can manage.
Michelle, you just made my morning. You did a great job with the visuals in your very generous tutorial. Thanks so much for the info and the laugh.
These are some great tips. Thank you for drawing it all out and explaining it so well.
Thanks for the informative post. I've started doing the wedge addition and sometimes extending the crotch hook, but your explanation helps articulate how all these things come together.
Wow! thank you for this detailed explanation about how you altered these pants (with the explanations about which alteration does what) This pattern is on my to-do list and your alterations will help me.
Rose in SV
Very helpful I'm going to try and incorporate your changes in my next attempt, I long for the days when my patterns fit great right out of the envelope.
very very helpful. I shall try those next time. I am also having quite good results generally with Burda. Its like they expect a girl to have a butt!
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