Monday, March 8, 2010

Burda 08-2009-122, Test Run

This weekend I was so happy to read everyone's incredibly thoughtful comments, and two of my ideas for outfits for the reunion definitely came out on top...the Cavalli zebra-print skirt, and the Teri Jon retro silk dress:


I am definitely leaning towards the dress, but I got such a response about that skirt, I think I will make it, too! Whether or not I wear it to the reunion, I think it would be a great skirt for any event.

Since my poor brain wasn't up to alterations on a vintage pattern 4 sizes smaller than me and a completely different shape, I decided to trace Burda 08-2009-122, which Burda describes as a "short denim skirt with clever front slit. It’s cut super-slim yet is very figure-flattering."


You can't really see many details of the skirt in the photo, so here is the line drawing:



I made this from some black denim that I had left from a pair of pants I made during my "fitting odyssey." The denim was ultimately too heavy and stiff to be comfortable as pants...I felt like the Tin Man walking around it my stiff pants...but for this skirt I figured that it would be just fine.

As for the instructions, they were mind-meltingly unclear. I used them for the order of construction, but couldn't decipher much else. So, I just did the best that I could, and put it together how I thought it should go together.

I did make a few changes. For one, I extended the seam that attached the front center/pocket piece because I thought that the pockets might gap on my round stomach if I attached them where they instructed. It made the pocket openings smaller, but not so small that I can't comfortably get my hand in.

Here is where I placed the tack reinforcing the pocket opening:


And here is where the pattern instructs you to do it:


I also topstitched the entire skirt in a contrasting color. Normally, when I topstitch I use thread that matches the fabric. I rarely make anything that calls for contrast topstitching. But, I thought that since this was, in essence, a muslin....why not? To do this, I threaded my 401 with two spools of khaki-colored thread, but kept black thread in the bobbin. I had read that this makes the topstitching "pop."


I am moderately proud of my topstitching on this skirt. Normally my topstitching looks like it was done by a pack of drunken monkeys. This looks like perhaps the monkeys in my sewing room were only mildly tipsy. I especially like the diagonal pockets on the back.


Overall, I am very happy with this skirt. It was very easy to alter, and after doing flat pattern measurements I decided to widen the side front and the back by 3/4 inch at the waist and grading out to 1 inch at the hips. To keep the skirt slim, I graded back down to the line for the size 44 towards the hem.

Surprisingly, the skirt fit nearly perfectly. So no more tissue fitting for me...I'm pretty ok with the flat-pattern measurements it would seem. In my final version, I need to decide what I want to do with the topstitching, and whether I want to use the front slit, or switch to a back slit instead.


Since I am using a black and white zebra print, for topstitching I could use just black thread, which would probably be just fine. On the other hand, I could get a little wild, and use a red topstitching. That would, of course, limit what the skirt could be worn with. That is something I will have to think about.

Here is the skirt ready to go to work this morning. From the front:


And the back:

19 comments:

Karin said...

Michelle, the skirt looks great on you. Very flattering. And if your monkeys are tipsy, then I don't want to know what my monkeys are using sometimes :|

Karin said...

What an awesome muslin! It looks great. I cannot wait to see this made up in your zebra print.

Carolyn (Diary of a Sewing Fanatic) said...

I like the dress idea for the reunion too! The black/white zebra skirt should be topstitched in red - that would give the skirt the wow factor! And you don't have to wear it with just red/black and white.

Finally the black denim skirt is very kewl!

KID, MD said...

Great skirt!! It looks great and it will look awesome in the zebra.

LisaB said...

The skirt looks great, and I like the contrasting topstitching.

What issue of the magazine was the skirt pattern in? I know the title of the post says 08-2010, but I don't think that's what you meant. :-) I'd like to find it in my back issues. Thanks!

Michelle said...

Thank you, Lisa, for letting me know I had the wrong date for the magazine. It is actually August, 2009. There are two versions, 121 and 122...121 has a slit in back and no fly front, and 122 has the slit in the front.

Mary Nanna said...

Oh I love it! Very flattering on you. Excuse me while I write that on my "must copy" list...

LisaB said...

Thanks, Michelle!

Skitzo Leezra Studio said...

Love the skirt, love the fit, love the dark denim but not so lovin' the back pockets . . .thinking you don't need them at all.
I would wear that skirt at least once a week.

AllisonC said...

That is such a flattering skirt shape, I love it.

gwensews said...

Great skirt! Zebra will be awesome!

Leslie V said...

Really cute!!!!!

Gail said...

Michelle you have inspired me. I have some denim that I originally bought for jeans, but I don't really want to make jeans when I can buy great pairs from the op shop (thrift store) for $9. I've been contemplating a denim skirt but haven't looked twice at this pattern.

Anonymous said...

My two cents: Black top stitching for a classy look, I think the red would make it more faddish somehow; and I vote for the slit in the back. Slit in the front would flash the wrong body part emphasis (the whoohoo!)when you sat and in the back makes it looks sexing and makes it easier to walk. Drunk monkeys my butt! You are my sewing hereo!

amber said...

Love the test skirt - you did a really lovely job on the topstitching and that is a great basic to have in the closet.

For the zebra print, I'd opt for black topstitching b/c I like for my skirts to be worn with lots of different tops. I think it's going to be a great little skirt!

Aminat said...

The skirt is really cute and you did a great job with those topstitching

AnnB said...

Love the new skirt, you decide and sew so fast. I vote for black topstitching, a back vent and maybe no back pockets for the print. I like pockets on denim, but will they be too busy unless matched exactly on the print? And if matched, do you need them? I can be convinced either way.

Sheila said...

Great skirt and to think its a muslin. Also I like the dress idea... will stay tuned.

Diane Drexel said...

Pack of drunken monkeys...LOVE IT!!!
May I borrow that phrase? I cannot wait to drop it at a business meeting sometime to liven things up.