Why I Hate Tissue Fitting

I am completely incapable of tissue fitting. I either inhale too big and rip all my pattern tissue like the Incredible Hulk busting out of David Banner's clothes, or I make a bunch of alterations that I end up having to undo, and should have trusted my flat pattern measurements all along. The more I attempt to tissue fit, the more firmly I believe that muslins are the best way to fit.

I traced off Burda 02-2010-114. The shirt goes up to a 44, but I needed a 46. So, I traced a 44 and then laid that line on the next size down and then traced a new line...using the grading of the other pattern sizes as a guide for where to place the next size up...if there were a next size up.


I then proceeded to do a tissue fitting and BELIEVED based on that that I needed to add a full 3 inches of width to the front.

Upon trying on the shirt after sewing the front and back together, I found that not only was it too large, but should I unexpectedly find myself pregnant, I am all set. Because I figured out how to make maternity clothes! It was HUGE around the hem. DISASTER!!

So, I took it apart, cut down the front (essentially making it the exact pattern that I had started with, before my tissue fitting) and put the shirt back together.


Then I tried it on again, and had to take out a good 3 inches under each arm and then recut the armscyes...which after my machinations were now big enough for a wrist. Seriously, I HATE TISSUE FITTING. It is always an unmitigated disaster when I do it. Muslins. Muslins are definitely the way to go.

Anyway, here is the final product....

Burda 02-10-114 is a "classic long-sleeved blouse with button panel, shirt collar and cuffs...our version is slightly fitted" per the magazine description. I did not use the giant cuffs because I used the sleeves and cuffs from the bib-front shirt that I have been putting on everything. Plus, I tend to wear a lot of cardigans, and those giant cuffs won't work with that.

Something that neither the line drawing, nor the garment photo adequately illustrates though, is just how large the collar is, and also that the collar stand extends far out past the collar itself. You can see it if you look at the photo for pattern 113, the tunic-length version of the same shirt:


And in "real life" it looks like this:


To make the shirt, I used the last of the embroidered white lawn that I had purchased for the princely sum of $1.95 a yard on sale at Fashion Fabrics Club.

The shirt has darts in both the front and back, and is closely fitted. But of course, after my "tissue fitting travesty," there is still some extra width around the hem, which I hacked back off the pattern for the next version. I also need to deepen the darts on the back, but even though it bunches slightly it is ok for now, because it will always be under a cardigan or jacket:


The darts in the front extend all the way to the hem:


And the front button placket is actually cut onto the front and then folded over. It is a more simple construction than a placket cut as a separate strip, but also makes for an incredibly broad front pattern piece:


Ultimately I am happy with the results, but I nearly lost my mind getting there.

In other news, I did finally get a new ironing board cover!


My old cover was full of holes and was roasted to a lovely shade of golden brown. I got this one (and a backup!) for just $9.00 at Tuesday Morning. Much nicer than the blah blue ones that they had at Target.