So, I decided that I wanted to try drafting a new pattern (or more appropriately, melding parts of patterns together to get what I want).
I used various parts of the following patterns to get to where I wanted. For the sleeves, bib front, front placket, and collar, I used the original shirt, 01-2010-133:
I then used the front and back for McCall's 5556, which I saw on Gwensews' blog, All My Seams. I immediately headed over to the McCall's website, but oh no! It is out of print! But, I have found that sometimes SewingPatterns.com have out of print patterns available for download, so I headed over there and downloaded it for $5.99. I traced the front and back from the pattern and then traced on the bib. I also had to shorten the darts so that they wouldn't extend into the bib area. As a side note, after doing flat pattern measurements, I ended up tracing a size 16, not the 20 that my measurements would indicate:
I also shortened both the front and back by three inches, since I think the original shirt was too long for my height (why is it that pattern companies assume that if you have a 42 inch bust that you must also be 6 feet tall? Just because I'm chubby doesn't mean that I want to hide in a tent). For the back, I ended up using a combination of the back for McCall's 5556 and the back from 02-2010-114. After tracing and shortening the back from McCall's 5556, I broadened it slightly and added darts for shaping based on the back of 02-2010-114:
I also changed the armscyes so that the sleeve from the original Burda pattern would fit. While I was assembling the shirt I found that the shoulder of the back was slightly wider than the front, so I had to trim it slightly.
This is what I ended up with:
Here is the shirt from the back:
Here is a closeup of the darts in the front:
The darts in the back provide plenty of shaping:
Overall, I think that this is one of the better fitting shirts that I have made, the back fits very well, although I initally thought the darts in back were HUGE. I could probably stand to take a wedge out of the front as well, but the fullness in the front will be there in any tunic-style shirt:
The length of this version is much better on me than in the original:
Overall, I am very pleased with the outcome of this. While I was tracing and melding the various patterns together I was very unsure as to whether the shirt would come together at all (fortunately the fabric was a very inexpensive, a sale from Fabric.com).
An interesting outcome of all this tracing and retracing, frankenpatterning, and drafting the outcome is that I have a whole envelope of various fronts, backs, collars, and sleeves that all fit together and that I can mix and match depending on whether I want an empire seam, a bib front, a stand collar, or a regular collar.
I have been trying to find a shirt that I would like to use my Liberty fabric for, I think that one more try with some minor tweaks and I might be ready to break into the expensive stuff:
I have a white lawn with black embroidery that might make it's way into the next version, maybe with some black piping around the bib:
15 comments:
Great blouse!! You really have an eye for combining patterns.
That is one lovely "melting pot" of a shirt!
Wow! It looks amazing! Great style and fit. I really like that fabric, too. I know it was a cheapie, but sometimes those are real deals! Nice! How crazy is that McCall's sizing though?? I almost always end up going down two sizes as well. How much ease do they think we need?
very nice, a successful merging of ideas and style elements.
Have liberty fabric envy. That will be heaven to wear and nirvana to sew.
Terrific blouse! And you have a bonus with so many mix and match pieces. That is the theory behind Brensan Studio's "Shirt Club" patterns--interchangable pieces. (brensan.com) I haven't tried those patterns, but Pam of Off The Cuff recommends them. Nice sewing!
It turned out great! I really like the fabric too, inexpensive or not.
That is a great blouse and the fabric looks very pretty!
Wow, job well done, Michelle! Sounds like you did quite a bit of work to make the "shirt of your dreams", but it looks fantastic, so it was all worth it! Extrem Frankenpattern is right!!!
I like the newer version so much better. Fabulous fabric.
You really went through the hoops to get what you want and it was worth it! Now you have a TNT pattern.
I think the changes you've made to the pattern to make it your own are fantastic. You've ended up with a great blouse and I can't wait to see the Liberty of London version.
I absolutely love this shirt on you! You did a really great job blending and melding the various patterns and I love that you have a whole envelope of pieces to work with in the future. I, too, can't wait to see the Liberty of London top. :)
This is gorgeous! Now I want to drop what I'm currently working on and make this, haha. :D I have SADD. (Sewing ADD)
Michelle, wow! You took the best elements and made a very attractive top. I hope you make more after your time and efforts to create what seems like a new TNT pattern for you.
I am dying to see the Liberty fabric. There has not been one time I've visited your site that I didn't hope you'd done something with it! I saw some in NYC in January and almost bought it...then chickened out. but I'm going back soon and I don't think I'll be able to resist.
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