Ever since I first started sewing with Hot Patterns patterns, I have loved the look of the Metropolitan Urbanista Coat Dress:
The one thing that I don't like is the revers and collar. I prefer a collar with a stand and no revers because it doesn't require a facing. I hate facings. The only facing that I have ever made peace with is the facing in Butterick 5331, because you essentially just cut two center fronts and the facing extends all the way over to the front princess seam and is stitched down there.But, I still love the look of the denim coat-dress. Recently, one was featured in BurdaStyle:

But again, revers and facings. Not to mention, the plunging neckline that turns up in every Burda. I don't think that the light denim looks very current, but it could be very pretty in darker denim. I prefer the looks of this denim dress from Tahari:

Except it suffers from a lack of darts, seaming, or anything other than a belt to provide shaping and would just look like a giant sack on me. Some more examples from NetaPorter and Kenneth Cole:


I like the looks of the RTW examples, but again the lack of shaping would be a problem. So, what I need is a princess-seamed shirt dress, like the Hot Patterns dress, but with collar and stand rather than revers and facing. Shouldn't be too hard, right? Fortunately, McCall's recently released this pattern:

Check out the top in the bottom left hand corner:

Sure, it's another pattern cover that suffers from completely blah pattern illustrations, but the bones of the shirt are good. If you look at the line drawings, the long sleeves are even drafted as two-piece sleeves.

I think just lengthening the longest version by a few inches would make for a dress very similar to the Hot Patterns dress, but lacking the facings that I want to avoid. Now the decision remains, do I do a "real" FBA on the dress, starting with a 16, also requiring alteration to the width, front and back? Or go ahead and cut a 20 and just take it in under the arms? I think I'm going to compare the pattern pieces to the Burda princess seamed shirt I just finished, and see how close they are.
Now just to decide about the details....topstitching? Flat-felled seams? Metal buttons? Snaps? Belt? Pockets? Oh, so many things to decide!
7 comments:
Sounds like you are going to have a lot of fun making choices there! I too love that Hot Patterns Dress and have it in the back of my mind to make sometime. Yes a FBA will be time consuming with a number of alterations to a number of pieces but go on, you can do it - it'll be so much more flattering. I just do it automatically - it takes a good hour. Can I suggest from my experience it's very important to do a tissue fit to work out how much to add to the front panel and how much to add to the side? If you don't, the seam won't run down the bust in the correction position .. ask me how etc...
I have no advice, because everything you make is amazing, so your judgement is spot on. Go for it!
Well spotted on that pattern! I think a shirt dress with that kind of shaping will be really nice and flattering. A great addition to any wardrobe!
I love that hot pattern. The style of the dress is flattering on almost ever body shape. I have worn that style and it is so comfortable. I also think demin in some form is always popular. I am looking forward to see what you choose and what you learn.
Lita
Peoria, IL
Looks like you've found your pattern. Re: the FBA - I've never had to do one (can you say concave??? lol) so don't know all the work involved. If you decide to do one, you'll get it done in no time, I'm sure. Whatever you decide, I'm betting the dress will be a success!
I like Hot Patterns styling, and whatever you pick will be great.
I found another shirtdress I thought you might like. It doesn't have darts or anything but it is very cute and darts could be added.
Burda: http://www.burdastyle.de/schnittmuster/schnitte-aus-dem-heft/burda-style-05-2010/kleid-ausgestellt-schnuerverschluss_pid_104_4557.html
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