Progress on "The Plan"

This weekend I finished with the second step in my plan that I set up for myself a couple of weeks ago.

If you remember, I wanted to use this red fabric to make the McCalls 5860, but there wasn't enough so I reverted to the orange jacket instead:


After a little thought, I decided to use the white linen blend for the McCall's jacket, rather than for either of the Vogue patterns that I had selected.


I felt like either of the Vogue patterns really needed a crisper fabric. I have to say, as nice as it looks on the bolt, I am not a fan of these linen blends. They are not "drapey" so much as they are "floppy." I don't know if that makes sense or not, but they don't press well, either. So I think I am pretty much done with them. I got three colors, I just used the last of it, and I won't be buying any more.

But, because I didn't have a fabric for the Donna Karan jacket, I ordered a citrus green color sateen from Fashion Fabrics Club, as well as a white sateen to make a coordinating pair of pants from my tape pattern.

Back to the McCalls jean jacket:



Since this is a Palmer-Pletsch pattern, there are pages and pages of instructions on fitting. Somehow, over the course of all the fitting, I managed to make a princess-seamed, nicely shaped jacket into something rather boxy. Also, a warning: the sleeves are super-long, and I took about 3 inches off the length of the jacket overall. Otherwise it was just so long it was overwhelming.

To finish the seams, I flat-felled most of them. There are a couple of places, like the inside of the pockets and under the pocket flap, that I zig-zagged the edges because I just couldn't envision how to hide it.

The fabric is somewhat see-through, but definitely not as bad as the eyelet I was working with a couple of weeks ago. Because it is lightweight, the jacket could be worn as a shirt, and the two "strategically placed" pockets and the front facing means you can get away without a cami.

In further sewing news....I probably won't get much done today because my niece is coming over to sew. Last week she finished another tunic, and this week she wants to make a skirt. We cut out the pieces last week and this week I did some "pre-sewing," mainly finishing some difficult parts for her and zig-zagging the edges of all her fabric.



She is doing well with her sewing but that ruffle on that shirt...omg, it was a disaster! She stayed over last weekend, and after looking at how she had sewn it on, I ended up taking out all her stitches and re-doing it while she was sleeping. I also re-set her sleeves. She's such a goof, she never noticed! She still thinks that she did all the sewing on the shirt!

Today we are going to work on this skirt from the April BWOF:
I have projects to work on as well, yesterday I cut out my fabric for Vogue 1107:


This pattern has 27 pieces. Let me repeat that.....TWENTY-SEVEN PIECES. Seriously!! The front and back are split into 4 pieces each, there are pleat underlays...but the side ones are a different size than the center ones!! I didn't even cut the pieces for the macrame belt or the knotted buttons. I just bought buttons. I used a brushed twill, and if this works out, I will probably get a nicer fabric for another version.

I'm trying my best to not let myself get derailed from my plans, but I just got an order from Fabric.com, and this charmeuse has been calling my name:


I think I need a couple of tunics! But logic will prevail, and I will continue to work on my plan....

Pants Copy Complete

Just a quick post today...I completed my copy of the Ann Taylor pants that I really like. To start, here are the original pants (please pardon the red face and crazy hair, work was a touch rough today!):


They are made of a gray poly-blend suiting with a deep cuff. The fabric does not stretch, and they do not have pockets in the front, but have welt pockets in the back.

Here is the completed copy:


I made a few changes to the copy, for one I left off the deep cuffs for a slightly more casual look. I also left out the welt pockets in the back, because the pocket bags ALWAYS wad up on my bum during the day. I also left off the belt carriers because I never wear a belt.

I made the copy from a taupe stretch denim from Fashion Fabrics Club that cost me a whopping $5.75 a yard. I still have enough left for a skirt, I may do up a version of this skirt from the April issue of Burda World of Fashion:
Overall, I am very happy with the copy of my RTW pants, and will probably use the pattern again.

Edited to Answer Questions:

Amy asked "Do they feel the same as your RTW pants?" and "How do you manage darts and pleats while taping?"

Yes, the pants do feel the same as the RTW pants, except for the slightly shorter hem. The other pants had to be worn with heels, these I raised the hem so they could be more versatile. As for darts and pleats, these pants did not have any darts, and I tend to not wear pleats because of my round tummy, so this is all just in my head, but....

What I did with the pocket markings and and fly was that I used a black sharpie and actually drew them right onto the tape while it was still stuck to the pants. That way I could transfer them exactly to the new fabric. If I had a dart, I would do the same. I would mark the line for the dart on the tape. But, when I transferred the tape to the tracing material, I would cut that dart open and expand it as I taped the copy to the tracing material...kind of the way you slash open a dart when you are making an FBA. Pleats, because they are more substantial, I think would be more difficult, even in the taping of the pants. I would think that the easiest way to make a dart would be to use an existing pattern with a dart to draw that in while you are tracing the tape later; that would give you a clue how much width you need to allow for pleats.

Also, Patty asked "Is there anything you would do differently?"

Yes I would do a better job of stretching the back piece as I was sewing to match the length of the front piece. One of the drawbacks to making patterns like this is you have no pattern markings (or instructions!) so I ended up with the back pattern piece not quite meeting the hem of the front piece at the inseam. Had I just stretched it a little while sewing, it would have been fine.

I would also have used a much more substantial interfacing in the waistband, or even make the interior waistband with a non-stretch material, because the waist does stretch....a bit of a "duh" moment for me, you make pants with a stretch denim, and then are surprised that the waistband isn't as snug? I deserve a slap to the forehead for that!! To fix that I may open up the waistband and contour a bit more at the side and center back seam.

Another Use For Painter's Tape

In my quest for a pattern for pants, I have been frustrated by the fact that I cannot get the pants I make to fit like some of the RTW pants that I have. So I went searching for information about how to go about copying a RTW garment...and most importantly, without taking it apart.

I have a pair of gray wide-legged pants with a cuff from Ann Taylor that I really like the fit of. They cover my bum, the waistband sits properly, and they are comfortable. So they became candidates for copying.

But how to copy a pair of pants? You can't just lay them down and trace them. Enter the painter's tape. It is important to use painter's tape, or some other low-tack tape because you are going to actually put it ON the pants.

Start by laying the pants out on a table, as flat as possible:


Start by "outlining" the front of the pants with tape:


Then using strips of tape, "fill in" the leg of the pants, and mark the fly, pockets, cuffs, or other details:


Carefully peel the tape off the pants as one piece, and stick it to your tracing material. I am using soil-separator cloth, so it is hard to see in the photo:


Using Kristine's handy-dandy little invention, outline your "replicas" to add seam allowances, and add the fly:


Yep, it's a sharpie rubber-banded to a pencil. Run the pencil along the edge of the tape, and the sharpie will draw a line where cutting line should be. There is a little strip of cardboard tucked in between the pencil and the sharpie to make the distance between the two tips 5/8 in. Also add the hem allowance.


Then do the same for the back. Since the back piece of a pair of pants is wider than the front, you will have to wrap the tape around to reach from seam to seam:


Fill in the same way you did with the front:


You will also need to do the same with the waistband, I lined the edge of the tape up with the bottom of the waistband, and added tiny little pleats to follow the contour of the back waistband:


Trace your seam allowances on the final pieces, and there you have it, a complete copy of the pattern for your RTW pants, without dismantling the pants!

Next blog, maybe I'll have a replica of the pants for you!

Phase 1, Complete

I should have called this blog "Phase One, Abort, Abort! Revert to Plan B!" But lord knows what kind of crazy searches it would turn up in if I had "Abort, Abort!" and "Plan B" in the title. It's kind of like the time I was teaching an Intro to Physical Anthropology class and didn't have any photos of Homo erectus remains for my powerpoint presentation. So, genius that I am, I did a google image search for "homo erectus." Yeah, not so many fossils turned up.

Anyway, back to the sewing....This past week I started on my first project in the plan I made for myself. Initially, I wanted to work on the red embroidered cotton:


But I discovered as I was laying out the pattern that the embroidery does not go all the way to the edge of the fabric. In fact, you lose about 4 inches on either side because of it, so you have to change your layout. No matter what I did, there was no room for the sleeves. I may try it again with a flat layout, and see if that helps. Or the fabric may become something else. What a bummer, though. I was all ready to get started and....nope.

So I switched over to the orange linen blend:


This one was super-simple because I had already made a pink version of the jacket, so I knew what I needed to do in regards to fit, and intended to do a MUCH better job on the top-stitching this time.


I am not going to buy any more of this linen blend crap. It feels nice in the store, but it doesn't look crisp at all, no matter how much you press it. So my lapels are kind of jacked up, and that is after using a heavier-than-usual interfacing, and also flipping the pieces so the interfacing is on the public side of the garment.

This pattern does not call for a lining, so I added binding to the seams to keep it from raveling:


I also hand-stitched the hem, and the front and back princess seams are flat-felled. The pattern calls for topstitching, but just like in the last version, why topstitch when it looks the same if you flat-fell it? AND you can hide the raw edges. I suppose that one day I will HAVE to break down and get a serger. Let me learn how to fit pants first. And stay off Craig's List looking for old Singers (I missed a 401 for $30.00 by 2 hours!!).

Next up, the Chado dress:


It is currently on the cutting table, I have separated all the pieces that I do not need. For the first version, I will leave out the lining, not make my own hand-knotted buttons, or the macrame belt, or the hem facing, or any of the other stuff that is just going to get in the way of me figuring out the fit and how to put together this crazy dress. It is just too complex to take the whole thing on at once.

I probably won't get anything more done today than cutting it out. My niece and nephew are here this weekend, so the sewing room is taken over with Sadie's projects.

I Got Overwhelmed....

And had to leave the room.

I was totally inspired by Carolyn's blog about organizing her fabrics, and Amanda's blog about matching up all her fabrics with patterns, so I decided to try the same thing.

I had to stop. I couldn't make up my mind. And it was going to make me cry.

I did manage to split my fabrics into two big bins...one that I can sew now (the cheap stuff, I'll sew while I'm all chubby from my medication), and things I will sew later (heavy wools for winter, and the expensive stuff that I won't sew until I get back to a decent weight).

For the stuff that I will sew now, I tried to make plans for. But, I ended up setting aside ALL the pants fabric because I ordered Pants for Real People, Pants for Any Body, and Fit for Real People. I know, I know, I finally caved and bought a book. So, it's back to muslin for me until I get my fit issues figured out. So, all the denim...twill...suiting....back into the bin!

Which left me with fabric for shirts, dresses, skirts, and jackets. Here are my plans:

I would like to do another version of Butterick 5331. I was pleased with the way my pink version came out, and lately I am having a bit of an obsession with orange. So, I would like to make another jacket in linen, and I have a couple of fat quarters in an orange print to use for the binding:


Next, I have a black pique to make a 3/4 sleeve jacket. I love the little peplum on this. Because I want it to be breathable, I am leaving out the lining, and binding the seams instead. I have both a black and white print that I could use, or I could go all out and use a leopard print:


I also picked up a copy of McCalls 5860, a jean jacket. I am considering doing it in a white linen. I still have some of the eyelet left from my shirt, and was thinking of doing an overlay on the back panel. I'm not sure, though. I wonder if that will look too "Welcome to Chico's, where we sell art to wear!"


If I decide not to make the jean jacket from the linen, I will use it to make one of these two Vogues. I know it's not very creative to make it just like the pattern envelope, but I really like the looks of both. I think the DKNY would be better for my body shape...I worry about the boxy shape of the Badgley Mischka:


If the linen gets repurposed, I have an embroidered red stretch cotton that I can use for the jeans jacket. One of the women that I work with has a hot pink eyelet jean jacket, and for some reason the first time I saw her wear it, it made me think of this fabric:


I also still need to work on my pink dress with the ruffled neckline, and have some pink floral cotton that I can use for seam binding:


I have a retro apron pattern that I need to finish for my friend, Tee:


And finally, I want to make a muslin of this Chado Ralph Rucci shirt-dress. I have a lightweight black twill that I think would be perfect for it. It's a pretty complex pattern, made even more so with the creation of your own macrame belt, knotted fabric buttons, pleat underlays, full lining, topstitching, and god knows what else they throw into the mix. I'm going to make a version without the lining and with flat-felled seams to mimic the topstitching:


And then I could do no more and ran screaming from the room.

McCall 5815

Over the Memorial Day holiday I had grand plans to put the long weekend to good use. I really didn't get as much done as I had hoped! When I got home from work today, I finished McCall 5815, a short-sleeved jacket with pleated sleeves and an elaborate draped collar.


I had hoped that the collar wouldn't look too much like "I shop in my Grandmother's closet," and I am still on the fence as far as the jacket is concerned. I used a linen/cotton blend because I thought that it would be "drapey" enough for the collar, but ultimately it doesn't have enough body to make the jacket and sleeves look nice. It just doesn't press as well as I had wanted.

The jacket has princess seams as well as a front dart, which gives it a nice shape. But, I had to take out my standard two inches under each arm and re-cut the armscyes...just like always.


The collar came out well, and the instructions were clear as long as you went step-by-step and read through carefully before sewing. Also, make sure you keep your pattern pieces clearly labeled, because there are separate under collar, and upper collar pieces that look nearly identical. The collar also won't go together well unless you are really careful in making your markings. In the end though, it came together. Although in sewing the section of the lapel with the little band that goes around the bow, I switched to a zipper foot to be able to get around the huge mass of fabric.


I also left out the lining and just did a hong kong finish on the seams instead. I didn't want a lining because I wanted the jacket to be cool for summer. The huge mass of fabric on the collar is already like wearing a scarf, and in a humid St. Louis summer I might just pass out from the heat.


I also ended up taking off the pockets. I sewed them on and they just would not drape they way they did on the pattern photo. So, rather than leaving them poking out the way they were, I just took them off.


Overall, I am pleased with the way the jacket came out given my changes and alterations. I am trying to make some office-appropriate wear for the summer that is not a full suit. Now if I could just master pants.....

How To Make a Pattern Twice as Difficult as it Should Be...

Choose a sheer fabric that needs complete underlining, requiring a ridiculous amount of handsewing, and be sure not to check the fit until you are half-way through!!


I just finished McCall 5809, a blouse to augment my summer work wardrobe. Overall, I am happy with how it turned out, but there are a couple of things that I ran into that frustrated me.


First, there were some issues with the pattern drafting. There were notches on some pattern pieces that did not have corresponding notches on other pieces, and the drafting of the lower part of the shirt was not great...the pieces were quite a bit wider than the waistband...which because of the oddities with the notches it was hard to tell what was the top and what was the bottom.

Second, I added a center back seam, cutting out about two inches at the back neck and grading out towards the waist. Lately it seems that all the McCalls and Butterick patterns that I have been using are made for incredibly broad backs. I had the same issue with Butterick 5331 and had to take out a significant amount of fabric from under the arms.


Here you can see just how much I had to cut out of it, represented by the black line on the pattern piece:


Third, I lengthened the front and back pattern pieces by two inches. I decided on this based on flat pattern measurements, and found that I needed a lot more length to cover the "girls." I didn't do an FBA because there was already significant gathering at the shoulder and where the bodice meets the waistband, but my bust is lower than the pattern was drafted for.


Fourth, I changed the zipper to an invisible zipper. I finally found an invisible zipper foot for my Singer 401. I picked up a little plastic gadget from Coats and Clark. It worked just fine with the slant shank, but a hint....if you get this, you have to turn the presser foot pressure allllll the way down, otherwise it pushes the plastic foot forward and the needle won't go through the hole in the foot.


Finally, I left the ruffle off the sleeves. It was just a bit too precious for me. I also left off the "decorative buttons" in the original instructions...I think I will be able to survive without any artsy-fartsy crap sewn to my shirt.

Because the white eyelet (is it really an eyelet if it doesn't have holes? Is it just an embroidery?) was soooo sheer, I underlined the whole thing with white Sheermist lining. In order to hide the seams, I sort of did a combination of a standard lining and an underlining, you can see here where I put the zipper between the layers from the waist down:


Above the waist, I used bias strips made from the lining to bind the edges of the seams. I also bound the armscyes, and where the seams were visible used french seams. By the end, I had all the seams finished or hidden, even though I was kind of flying blind as far as how to assemble it. I would probably do a better job if I were to remake it, but overall I am happy with it.

In response to LaKaribane's questions below:

LaKaribane asked, 1) The lengthening you did. Did you lengthen for bust/torso length only or for a 2-in-1 with the FBA issues? Because you go on to say that the gathers eliminated the need for a FBA.If it's for length only, why not lengthen the midriff only?

I only lengthened the bust because I have a very low bust point. Probably about 2 inches below that of my dress form. For that reason, my dress form has one of my bras stitched to it, and padded out, so that the bubbies are where they should be. (But, let's face it, if my bust was where it should be, I wouldn't have to lower it on the dress form!). I didn't do a full bust adjustment because there were already plenty of gathers at the shoulder and at the under-bust seam, so it wasn't so much a matter of coverage that I was looking for, but to make sure that my bust was actually in the bodice, and not in the waistband.

I didn't make any alterations to the midriff or the peplum, because there I needed no extra length, I sliced the bodice just under the armscyes, and added the additional tissue to allow the waist seam to fall under the bust rather than cut across the bust. I then added the same ammount of length to the back, so the waist would be even all the way around.

2) The peplum width difference with the midriff. So you cut it down to fit the existing midriff or, a contrario, ajusted the midriff to fit the peplum? Was it the case for both front and back?I'm short so I guess the length will not be a problem. Rather the back width.

I didn't make any alterations to the peplum, but just stretched the fabric as much as I could while sewing. In re-examining the shirt, I think I may have actually attached the waistband upside down, and that is the reason that the peplum and waistband notches and length did not match. So, I think that if you mark clearly what is the top of the waistband and what is the bottom...you will not have any problems at all.

The back width is something that I SHOULD have fixed prior to cutting the shirt, and had I done a better job of flat pattern measurments, I would have known right away that the back was too wide.

Good luck on your version! I can't wait to see it on Pattern Review!!

--Michelle