Wednesday, June 3, 2009

Pants Copy Complete

Just a quick post today...I completed my copy of the Ann Taylor pants that I really like. To start, here are the original pants (please pardon the red face and crazy hair, work was a touch rough today!):


They are made of a gray poly-blend suiting with a deep cuff. The fabric does not stretch, and they do not have pockets in the front, but have welt pockets in the back.

Here is the completed copy:


I made a few changes to the copy, for one I left off the deep cuffs for a slightly more casual look. I also left out the welt pockets in the back, because the pocket bags ALWAYS wad up on my bum during the day. I also left off the belt carriers because I never wear a belt.

I made the copy from a taupe stretch denim from Fashion Fabrics Club that cost me a whopping $5.75 a yard. I still have enough left for a skirt, I may do up a version of this skirt from the April issue of Burda World of Fashion:
Overall, I am very happy with the copy of my RTW pants, and will probably use the pattern again.

Edited to Answer Questions:

Amy asked "Do they feel the same as your RTW pants?" and "How do you manage darts and pleats while taping?"

Yes, the pants do feel the same as the RTW pants, except for the slightly shorter hem. The other pants had to be worn with heels, these I raised the hem so they could be more versatile. As for darts and pleats, these pants did not have any darts, and I tend to not wear pleats because of my round tummy, so this is all just in my head, but....

What I did with the pocket markings and and fly was that I used a black sharpie and actually drew them right onto the tape while it was still stuck to the pants. That way I could transfer them exactly to the new fabric. If I had a dart, I would do the same. I would mark the line for the dart on the tape. But, when I transferred the tape to the tracing material, I would cut that dart open and expand it as I taped the copy to the tracing material...kind of the way you slash open a dart when you are making an FBA. Pleats, because they are more substantial, I think would be more difficult, even in the taping of the pants. I would think that the easiest way to make a dart would be to use an existing pattern with a dart to draw that in while you are tracing the tape later; that would give you a clue how much width you need to allow for pleats.

Also, Patty asked "Is there anything you would do differently?"

Yes I would do a better job of stretching the back piece as I was sewing to match the length of the front piece. One of the drawbacks to making patterns like this is you have no pattern markings (or instructions!) so I ended up with the back pattern piece not quite meeting the hem of the front piece at the inseam. Had I just stretched it a little while sewing, it would have been fine.

I would also have used a much more substantial interfacing in the waistband, or even make the interior waistband with a non-stretch material, because the waist does stretch....a bit of a "duh" moment for me, you make pants with a stretch denim, and then are surprised that the waistband isn't as snug? I deserve a slap to the forehead for that!! To fix that I may open up the waistband and contour a bit more at the side and center back seam.

10 comments:

Sue said...

Great pants - from the photos they look like a twin of the RTW pair!

Amy Johnston said...

They look great! I'm so glad you did these up so quickly because I was dying to see how this pattern method would work. Do they feel the same as your rtw pants? (In fit, not fabric) Also, how do you manage darts or pleats when taping? Thanks for the info!

Patty said...

Nice job, they look great! Anything you would do differently?

Susan said...

Phenomenal job. Looks identical!

The Lady in Red said...

Those pants look AWESOME! Excellent job, you!

KlevaBich said...

They look perfect! And I can't believe how fast you whipped them together. Well done!

As for matching the front and back, I would measure the seam-line of each piece, divide into halves, then quarters. You can then create your own notches for these spots so you'll know how much to ease as you go along. It's also possible that a little more easing was intended at the hipline than through the rest of the leg. You could just compare other pants patterns to see if that's the case.

Unknown said...

**applause, applause** Great pants, nice work copying RTW and sharing your success and tips with all of us! Kudos to you!

HeathersSphere said...

Another pair of sharp looking pants, Michelle! You are definitely a pants making pro! Wonderful work as always!

EmilyKate said...

Lovely pants! They look to be a great fit.
I'm really looking forward to the April 09 Burda WOF coming out Down Under, because I've been eyeing that skirt too from the online previews.
btw, I've awarded you a Lovely Blog award, You can pick it up here ;o)


http://thisisemilykate.blogspot.com/2009/06/aw-shucks.html

Marly said...

To solve the problem with too much stretch in the waistband... Add 'stay tape' type of interfacing. That should work.