Monday, June 29, 2009

Tape Pants 2.0

Last week I wrote about my struggles to create a pants pattern that fits well. After some "investigation," I decided that the crotch curve was completely wrong. So, I completely redrew it and started over in my fitting attempts. Below are some comparative pictures.

Here are some early attempts at pants:



And here is my most recent attempt with the heavily altered back curve:


OK, yes, there are still wrinkles there, but they are DIFFERENT!

Now, instead of a huge wad of fabric under each butt-cheek, I have wrinkles pointing to my hips. THIS I can deal with! This is addressed in PFRP. I think, and someone correct me if I am wrong, that what I need to do is slightly scoop the back crotch curve and add some tissue to the inseam.

I know that it doesn't LOOK very different, but if you look closely that the most recent one, you can see that the wrinkles actually extend up over my butt-cheek, whereas they were all hanging up UNDER the butt-cheek before. Also, I don't have as MUCH fabric pooling on the back of the thighs.

I think that the reason that I was having so much trouble fitting these pants is because I had a myriad of problems going on, beginning with a crotch curve that was completely wrong, and then exacerbated by what is now visible. Now that I can actually SEE what is wrong, rather than just adding, adding, adding to the inseam, I can fix what is wrong.

I also have the front nearly worked out. Here is a pair made from the original pattern:


And here is the most recent pair:


This was fixed by adding some fabric at the side seams and straightening the front curve, not adding tissue to the inseam.

I am ready for one more muslin, and hopefully you will see some REAL progress!

2 comments:

Sue said...

Good work! Fitting pants is the hardest - so well done you to be so patient!

gwensews said...

I belive you are correct to add to the back inseam to eliminate wrinkles. Pant fitting is difficult, but once you get a good fitting pattern, you can have tons of pants quite easily. Good job.