Saturday, September 12, 2009

BWOF Shirt, Version 2

Today I finished version 2 of the BWOF 05-2009-110.

As I mentioned in my last post, I was "breaking the rules" and using a quilt cotton for it. Because of the stiffer fabric, this shirt would not drape as well as the batiste version so I cut it 4 inches shorter overall than the first version.

Here is the longer version, hitting low on the hip:


Here is the second version, with a shorter length:


I also made a change to the cuff in this version. In the first shirt, I used a very small button, so was able to do a double button on each cuff:


On this version, I used a larger button, and also didn't have enough buttons to double them on the cuff, so I narrowed the cuff and used a single button:


In that photo, you can also see the continuous lap, that is made from a strip of self-bias, and then mitered at the top corner on the inside of the sleeve.

Here is a close-up of the gray buttons that I used:


As in the last version, I top stitched the front band, collar, collar stand, and cuffs:


The back is slightly problematic. With the heavier quilting cotton, the back pleats do not hang nicely, and I am considering stitching them down further on the shirt to keep them from making a little tent back there:


If I continue to use this pattern as a "TNT," I might draft an alternate back with darts at waist level and use that when not using a light, drapey fabric.

However, I think that this shirt illustrates some of the things that I mentioned in the previous blog about using the "right" fabric for garments....it's the exception that proves the rule!

1. The print is not too cute or quirky, and with the Asian flair, it also doesn't look like I made it out of my grandmother's curtains (that is something I always worry about with a large floral. Give me a small floral and I will immediately dub it "Too Little House on the Prairie," however, so there is really no pleasing me!). But, it is a relatively adult print considering its source.

2. There were also a couple of aspects of the pattern that I had to change because of the texture of the fabric, including the length of the shirt. The first shirt made an airy tunic, this shirt is stiff enough that it stood out from my body like exoskeleton. By removing 4 inches in length, I took away it's tendency to do that. However, the pleats on the back are still problematic and want to "pop open," so I will need to do some work on that.

I am quite happy with the shirt overall. I have two pairs of gray work pants that it will match very nicely, and provide a pop of color and an interesting print for the weekly work wardrobe. It would also be nice under a gray blazer that I have.

In completely unrelated news, last night I forgot to put away the little dish of catnip. And I woke up to this:


Courtesy my very large, and very ill-tempered cat, Ollie (a.k.a., The Mad Pisser and the reason that the dining room carpet got removed:

3 comments:

Carolyn (Diary of a Sewing Fanatic) said...

You should call this your exception to the rule shirt! *LOL* Actually the print is pretty awesome and I like how you worked through the challenges of using a quilting cotton to make this work!

KID, MD said...

LOVE the print! So worth fiddling for the pattern for. The fit is great. The cat - awesome!

gwensews said...

Nice looking shirt. Quilting cottons are difficult because of their stiffness, but you've managed it well.