Sunday, September 20, 2009

Finally, Pants Success!

This weekend I got back to sewing pants. If you recall, I have been working on achieving the perfect fit in pants (I won't even link the blogs because there are so many!). I went through about 5 iterations of a copy of a pair of RTW pants that I liked the fit of, and had gotten a pretty good fit from that, however I still couldn't get rid of all the creases from the back of the legs. Chelle at Smoking Needles recommended widening the back of the legs so I tried that with this pattern.

I started by tracing the pattern for BWOF 07-2009-102, in a size 46.


I then compared the tracing to my "tape pants" pattern, and added about 1 1/2 inches in width to the back leg, and extended the front crotch curve slightly. Other than that, I made no changes. I sewed a pair in black cotton twill, and here are the results:


While I had gotten rid of all the "crotch smileys" and the back fit fairly well, the upper hip and waist was way to large. Plus I have a case of the droopy-bottoms. They are not unwearable, but there was about 3 inches of additional ease in there. Normally, I like essentially zero ease at the waist, grading out at the hips. I may just try washing and drying them on really high heat and see if that makes them more comfortable.

So, it was back to the drawing board. I increased the width of the darts, and narrowed the back at the hip just slightly. The red lines on the pattern are the alterations:


I then cut a second pair from a gray flannel that I had picked up from FFC about a hundred years ago. Every time I rearrange the "stash," I have to stop and pet it, it is so soft. So, I decided that it would become a pair of pants. Too bad I couldn't sew them inside out!

Here is the second version, with the wider dart, and taken in slightly at the hip and waist:


It's a good fit, both front and back. I will probably continue to use this pattern, I am very pleased with how this pair turned out. The way the pockets are constructed, they do not gape at all. I do prefer a wider waist band, and may try and decrease the top of the pants and increase the waist band. If nothing else, it will be good to compare to "new" patterns to match the crotch curve and for other necessary alterations.

13 comments:

Linda T said...

By George, I think you've got it! These gray ones look fantastic. Congratulations!

Gail said...

There is nothing like the sweet smell of success.

knitmachinequeen (KMQ) said...

Perserverance does pay off! I think I'm oging ot have to try that pattern now. Like you I will compare it to my painter's tape slacks and adjust from there. Good work!

Sew Shy said...

HURRAH! And with super cute pockets too.

KID, MD said...

Awesome! I love the shape of those pockets. I shall have to give that pattern a try as well.

Sue said...

Great result on the pants- tht is one thing I still need to master!

Joyce in NC said...

Great fit on the pants. Looks like you have a TNT pants pattern.

okie2thfairy said...

Yippeee!!! You did it. The pants fit great. I'm glad you stuck it out.

Carolyn (Diary of a Sewing Fanatic) said...

You have worked so hard on getting the perfect fit that I'm glad you finally have a wearable pair of pants! Congrats!

ConnieB said...

Linda T echoed my thoughts exactly. That pair looks Stellar!

Diana said...

Congrats! These are a wonderful fit. I have never really achieved that perfect fit in pants and pretty well gave up when I noticed how so not perfect is the fit on people who wear RTW pants. Now mind you I may have another go. You've inspired me.

Andrea said...

I know you are clicking your heels. Congrats on finally getting the fit you wanted. It is such a hard thing to do, and you achieved it. Kudos!!!!

Shannon said...

Wow! All that hard work paid off! They look fab!