Wednesday, September 9, 2009

Exceptions to the Rule?

One question that often inspires intense discussion on the Pattern Review message boards, and in other blogs is choosing the proper fabric for patterns.

Many people seem very opposed to purchasing fabric online. I don't comprehend this. What you can get at Hancock's and JoAnn's is 90% complete garbage. The other 10% is polar fleece. Seriously, how much polar fleece does one store need to carry? There are a few things that I consistently purchase (and am happy with) at Hancock's, and that is twill for pants. They always have huge tables full of cotton twills that are just the right weight for pants, and when they are on sale 40% off, that makes them just over $2 a yard. Great for my quest for "the perfect pant." Everything else I purchase there, I hold my breath until it comes of of the washing machine in tact. And DON'T even get me started about fabric from Wal Mart. Did I mention the denim that pilled? I know I have, because I am STILL filled with rage over that!

But back to the opposition to purchasing fabric online...if you won't, then how would you get quality fabrics if chain stores are all you have??? Seriously, if it weren't for Fashion Fabrics Club, Fabric.com, and Gorgeous Fabrics, I wouldn't sew. No you can't feel the fabrics. Yes, some of the colors may not be exactly represented on your monitor, but that is something that I am happy to live with in return for access to reasonable, and attractive fabrics. For me, the key to purchasing fabrics online is to never spend more than I can afford to lose. I also have a rule, that I never spend more than $10.00 per yard if I am purchasing without requesting a swatch. Sure, I've gotten some duds (and not just from FFC, I've gotten the unexpected from all the companies I order from except Gorgeous Fabrics), but if you aren't spending too much you can always use it for muslins.

But lately, I have seen a couple of discussions about using quilting cottons for clothing, and I agree...this is not the best way to make great clothing. Quilting cotton is stiff. If you purchase good quality, it can cost upwards of $8.00 a yard, meaning that there is no significant savings in using quilting cotton over apparel fabric once you take into account the additional you need given the 45 inch width. If you purchase cheap quilting cotton, it will fade almost immediately. Not to mention, you will walk around looking like my grandmother's couch.

It is difficult, however, to convince people to use good-quality garment fabrics as opposed to quilting cottons, namely because there are a number of exceptions to the "no quilt cottons" rule.

One exception is kids clothes. I make clothing for my niece and nephews all the time using quilt cottons...because they adore the prints on them. My nephew has shirts with skulls, shirts with race car wheels, dragons, flames, motorcycles...and did I mention skulls? He LOVES those crazy outfits, and quilt cottons are the only place to find those prints.



Another reason that it can be confusing is that sometimes the pattern companies themselves will show quilting cottons in their pattern illustrations! For example, in this McCall's pattern...I SWEAR I have seen that print in the upper right hand corner on a quilting site:


And this Vogue...the black, white and grey dress is made from a Michael Miller print:


And the floral skirt in the lower right of this one...I have walked past that EXACT print in the quilting section of my local independent fabric store:


And don't forget about Amy Butler!


So, how do you convince people that quilting cottons are neither the best nor most inexpensive options for sewing clothing when even the pattern companies are using them?

For me, the answer is that quilt cottons are USUALLY not the best choice for a garment. Except in the case of a pattern that specifically requires a crisp cotton...a structured shirt, or a skirt that needs that stiff, a-line shape.

What adults should avoid though, are the quirky prints that are so cute for kids. Nothing marks a garment as "home sewn" quicker than a fabric that is CLEARLY out of step with current ready-to-wear trends. As much as I might think it would be fun to have a shirt with skulls with pink bows, or cupcakes, "Becky Home-ecky" is not the look I am going for.

So what am I working on now? I'm working on breaking my own rules! I'm making another version of the BWOF blouse that I made last week with....a quilting cotton!


It's cool though, if it looks ridiculous, I'll just give it to my mother!! Plus, the awesome thing about sewing rules is you can break them whenever you want...just do it with full knowledge that you ARE breaking a rule, and be prepared for the product to turn out quite differently than expected.

4 comments:

Eugenia said...

Thanks for an interesting post I really enjoyed reading this. I'm with you on buying online. I live in London and therefore have easy access to quite a lot of fabric shops - which I do purchase from but I also like to buy fabric online because you can get some great stuff at good prices. Occasionally it may turn out to be not exactly as I expected but I don't usually mind that. Almost always, however, I'm very pleased with what turns up and it's kind of exciting when a package arrives!

Sue said...

I have to say I like using quilting cottons to sew garments with - I don't have any expectation that I will save money as the good quality ones cost Au$26 per metre in regional Australia. However I find the good quality ones wash and wear well, sew up beautifully, require minimal ironing and have the most delicious colours. I tend to go for the japanese prints not the cutsey prints and I love them! The only people I find who identify them as quilting cottons are other quilters! I have made a shirt and a skirt (yes the McCalls one you pictured and I love that skirt).
However, I do agree with you about internet shopping - I do quite a bit of it(again living in a regional part of Australia I have to, to get what I want).

Chris said...

Yes, some quilting cottons are not perfect for apparel but not all. Some have a very nice finish and hand to them. As with apparel fabric you can always get a dud. And if you shop around on the net you can get a good price too.

I think it is a matter of choice and where you live. Cotton is king in FL!

Unknown said...

I like using quilting cottons for my daughter's dresses, since they are more durable and wash up so nicely. Good luck with the top, I think it will be cute.