One of the fabrics that I got was a 4 yard length of "satin twill" which is a cotton-poly blend that has a definite diagonal twill weave, with alternating lines of matte and shiny fabric. The inside has almost the feel of a brushed cotton, and is totally matte. It is a touch too heavy for a blouse, but too light for a pair of pants. It is also machine washable. So, I decided to make a "Little Black Dress" (or, a not-so-little black dress, as ever since I have been on steroids for my HS, I have completely grown out of my actual little black dress).
I decided that I would use McCall 5809, which is a pattern for a shirt that I have used before. When I made the shirt previously, I had all sorts of problems attaching the waist band. come to find out, I was putting it on upside down...but I mixed it up because the bottom edge in the back is missing the notches, so I managed to flip it.
Ever since I made the first shirt, I kept thinking about how it would make a great dress, with a bit of a retro vibe, if I could just get the skirt right. So, I decided to give it a shot.
Since I had made the shirt before, I was fairly confident regarding the fit, and set out using my altered pattern (slashed and tissue added to lower the empire line, and the back narrowed by adding a center seam rather than cutting on the fold). I also extended the peplum to skirt length, and then cut both the front and back on the curve. I ultimately ended up shortening the skirt by about 4 inches, to just below knee length:
I got the dress finished up and put it on the dress form, and....something just wasn't right:
There was a big bulge under each arm and the front was gaping. I was so upset! How could this have happened, I made it with exactly the same alterations as the original! And I hated the thought of removing the zipper to make alterations, because dammit, that invisible zipper was perfect!
A little hint for getting the seam above and below the zipper to lie flat without making that little bubble that sometimes happens at the bottom of the invisible zipper? Sew the seam with your adjustable zipper foot, with the foot to the left of your needle. You can sew almost right up to the start of your seams for the zipper that way, and the bulk of the zipper won't shift your seam over by bunching up against your presser foot.
I couldn't figure out why the dress fit so poorly, so I got out the original shirt and guess what? Because I was working without notches, I did not do any gathering at the bottom of the bust, so the front bodice had a bigger overlap than in this version (you know, the version in which I actually followed the instructions, and inserted the waist band properly):
I picked out the seam at the bottom of the bodice, took out the gathers, and sewed the pieces back in with no gathers and the same overlap as in the white version. Please ignore in the following photo that the dress is in need of a good steaming and about three layers of Spanx:
Overall, I am really happy with the way the dress turned out, even if I forgot that I neglected to follow directions in the original version! I hate what the flash of the camera does to this fabric, it really is NOT that shiny, but I guess it's either flash...or no pic! I think that this will be a very versatile dress, and could be dressed down with the addition of a cardigan, or dressed up with the right shoes and jewelry.
10 comments:
You should be happy with it. It looks lovely.
Good on you for perservering! - your dress is lovely and will be versatile like you say.
SO cute!! I have that pattern and would never have thought to lengthen it to a dress. It looks great!
Very cute LBD, you're right about dressing it up or down, looks great on you.
That was a great way to make use of that pattern. The dress looks great on you.
Hey this is a really great dress - it's the sort of dress that can take you anywhere.
That was an "aha" moment for you! You were right--that blouse did make a lovely dresss.
Oh, I Like! Don't be hard on yourself, I've probably done most all the silly mistakes one could ever do. I won't say I have done them 'all' because I'm sure there will be more to come!
I had planned to work on my blouse like your recent 2 burdas, but the tree falling and the need to help a friend take care of an errand today, prevented that--so the pattern is laid on the fabric ready to cut. I'm anxious to start tomorrow if nothing else bends or breaks loose!
I really like your dress and applaud your creativity. I am new to your site through a mention on the Threads Gathering. I am thrilled at the amount of sewing you are getting done. I am one of those who has debated ordering fabric on-line. You give me courage. I still like being in a store and touching. But we are losing a lot of scources over the yeras. Even Walmart has removed ore decreased the selections of fabric from the craft dept. My guess is they don't want to have to have a couple of people to man that dept. all the time. Jo-Ann's has more and more craft stuff and less dress-making fabric and Hancocl closed there local store.
I better quit the rant.
I have enjoyed seeing your dress-making adventures and the pictures of projects on the dress form and on a real person are very helpful. I really enjoyed the boys, big and little in their fun sprot shirts.
Joy
I'm glad you reworked it because it's very pretty on you! And as far as the name goes...whatever I can do to help! ;)
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