Vintage Advance 5828

Today I completed Advance 5828, a 1950's era yoked shirt with convertible collar, pleated detail, and sleeve options. I made it from a black batiste from Fashion Fabrics Club, that ran around $4.00 a yard.

The pattern is a size 18, which mean a 36-inch bust. Unfortunately, my bust is 43 inches, so I figured there would be some significant alterations. Surprisingly, a simple full bust adjustment was all that was needed. I also took in the waist at the side seams, but I have to do that with everything, so I don't even think of that as an important alteration anymore. If something fits my bust or hips, then it inevitably has 2-3 inches too much ease around the waist.

After rescuing the shirt from my moronic "serger incident," I was able to finish up the sleeves and complete the shirt.


Here is a detailed shot of the front yoke with the pleats:


The pattern indicated one pleat in the sleeve, but I added an extra one:



Here is the back detail, with the yoke I added to cover the serger massacre:


I am really happy with how it turned out. Here is the shirt on. Make sure you have the right underclothes, though! A black bra is a must:


Surprisingly, the back is still slightly wide. I could stand to take in the back pleats more, but that might also create some fullness at the shoulder and hip. What would be better is to take a bit of tissue out of the center back.


Overall, I am really pleased with the fit of this shirt, considering the different proportions between the 50's and today...not to mention, the original pattern is quite a bit smaller than I am. I think I will definitely use this pattern again, especially since it has a long sleeve option, or I think you could make the yoke without the pleats. Or you could try not to hack a giant hole in the back of it and be forced to add a back yoke. You know, just for a different look!