The Most Tedious Pants In The World

An update...

I should have learned my lesson about Burda, when I made the most tedious dress in the world:


They are up to their old tricks with these pants! I have been working on these pants non-stop since Sunday. Well, you know, except for work. But, normally I can knock out pants in no time at all (because I have done so many!). But these...these are turning out to be a real pain.

First up, the alterations were just mind-bending. With the back leg extended and curving around the front leg, I was lost as to how to alter them, because I had to add width to the back leg. The front alterations were easy...all I had to do was lay my TNT Burda tracing on it, and recreate my altered front crotch curve. There were no other alterations to the front pattern piece, or the front yoke.
The back pattern piece looks like this:


There is a line down the pattern piece from the top of the hip all the way to the hem. This serves as both a grainline, as well as where you are to split the piece, add seam allowances, and sew it back together creating a seam down the back of the leg. I needed to add 2 inches across the back piece at the level of the hips, grading down to one inch at the waist and nothing at the hem. I split that, and added that to each side of that center back seam, grading as needed. This took a pattern piece that was straight, and added a curve to it. Now, the danger is that this would create a curved seam down the back of the leg, but since I added it to both sides, what it created was some extra room for my rear end, because the curve doesn't waver from side to side, but comes OUT from the back of the pant...if that makes sense. The reason that I need that extra space on the back piece is because of a large, round bottom...so I figured that this would give my bottom the space it needed in the pants. Here is the finished seam, with the yoke added:


I also added the same width in the back yoke, and corrected the curve of the piece:

This also necessitated altering the back waistband:


One other change that I made was to attach the pocket flap for the side-seam pockets to the back pattern piece and not the front. That way, I can button the pockets closed and keep them from gaping, rather than having a decorative flap on the front, and pockets that gape anyway:


I was short on fabric, so for the pocket bags and inside of the pocket flaps and waistband, I used a fun cotton:


This fabric is left over from an outfit that I made for my nephew over the summer:


I'm sure he won't mind! If I make these pants again, I will definitely change the pocket pieces to have a pocket facing (a la the Marrakesh pant) as well as adding the extension to the fly to keep them lying flat. To keep them from gaping, I could topstitch the pocket edges, but with so much other topstitching going on, I don't want to add that. With a pocket facing, I could add the flap to the front of the pocket and make it decorative rather than functional, since with a facing a small gape would not reveal the pocket lining of a different fabric.

I will try to squeeze in a little work on these tonight. So far, I have one leg completely constructed, and need to attach the back to the front on the other leg. After that, it just leaves inserting the zipper, adding the waistband, and hemming. I doubt I will get them done tonight, though...it's Project Runway night!

Fabric Shopping and This Week's Plans

Today I needed an excuse to go to the fabric store (and buy something more than zippers, just to feel as if I had accomplished something). So I cut a sample of my cobalt/multi Vera Wang boucle and set of on a mission to find something that matched it.

I had decided that I wanted to use it for Vogue 1127, a Badgley Mischka skirt, jacket, and shell.


I wandered all over the store looking for matches, and noticed that in the silk brocades and silk dupioni that I always have to stop and pet that there was a an iridescent gold that matched the gold specks in the boucle very well. The silk was woven in gold one direction, and hot pink in the other, that made for a bronze/orange color that was very striking. Here is the dupioni with the boucle. The flash is making the dupioni really glow, but the color is fairly accurate:


While that had the shell taken care of, I still needed to locate a lining for the jacket and skirt. I found in the formalwear a lining in a yellow that looked fairly good:


This photo was taken without flash, so you can see what the fabric looks like without the flash blasting the dupioni. I am actually pretty excited to get started on this project. I am not sure whether or not to attempt to wash the silk. Silk Road Fabrics mentions on their web page that:

Dupioni is marked 'Dry Clean Only' but it can be washed IF you wash it before you cut it out. Silk dupioni loses much of its stiffness when washed, and just a bit of its sheen, but it still looks great. It will shrink up to 12% - 5 inches (13 cm) per yard - when washed, but it is very difficult to wrinkle after that. And no dry cleaning bills! Pre-made or lined dupioni garments should most likely be dry cleaned.

Today I also traced a pair of Burda pants that I would like to make. I really like the interesting seams. The back also has a curved yoke, and a seam down the center of the back of each leg. I used my Burda TNT pants for the alterations, but with all those seams going every direction, the alterations were MINDBENDING. I hope that it turns out...I anticipate making more than one pair to get these right! But, I'll be sure to make a complete accounting of the alterations if they turn out well, since I really had to stare at these for a while before figuring out what to do with them:
I have a gray twill as well as a khaki twill that would work equally as well for these. I may use the khaki and make them with the cargo-pockets, and then if it works well make a second pair with the gray, sans pockets and flaps.

If I get a few moments this week, I will at least try to get the Vogue pattern fit and the pants started.

I hope everyone had a good weekend, and I will keep you updated!

Shawl Collar Wrap Jacket

I decided that I would use my ivory boucle from the Fabric.com sale for the Wrapover Jacket in the December, 2009 Burda. I knew that I was potentially heading for an unexpected result, as the jacket calls for a knit and I was using a woven. Fortunately, KID, MD had made the same jacket recently, and also in a woven and with good results. I heeded her warning that in a woven the sleeves were very narrow, and added some extra room in the biceps.

The boucle shredded like crazy, so I used my serger for nearly all the construction. The boucle also looks very different on the front and the back. One side very clearly has a pattern of squares, and shiny rayon threads are visible:


On the other side, the pattern of squares is much less visible, and it is this side that I used for my "front."


I initially had concerns about making a jacket like this from a woven, so I did a little snoop-shopping and found a couple similar boucle jackets with belted waists. This Classiques Entier Atelier Boucle Jacket, was on sale at Nordstrom, regular price $298.00, on sale for $148.00:


As well as this one from Lafayette 148 (also from the Nordstrom website), regular price $448.00, on sale for $267.00:

Here is the finished product:

And man oh man, is it warm! It may get worn open more often than closed:


Overall, it was a very simple pattern to put together, I read the instructions and they made perfect sense to me...which may just mean that Burda has given me Stockholm Syndrome.

There was a lot of handstitching, that probably took me as long as the entire rest of the project. You have to handstitch the hems for the bottom and the cuffs, as well as stitch the shawl collar down all the way around. Other than that, the sewing was really quick, and the sleeves are set in flat, so that made everything very easy. The only issue that I ran into was the tendency of the boucle to shred. Not ravel, but completely shred! So, I finished the hem and ends of the sleeves with the serger before it fell apart completely, and did all the construction seams on the serger. The only thing that I did on the regular machine were the seams for the sash and two small seams on the front.

The one issue that I have is something that, of course, is completely invisible in the model photo...the fact that the shoulders are very, very dropped. Of couse, that is the risk that you often take when you don't make a muslin...yes, I am impatient and did not do one. I figured, what the heck....if I mess it out, I'm only out about $5.00 worth of fabric. On the other hand, they are SO dropped it was clearly intentional, so I'll call it "stylistic" and wear it anyway!

New Fabrics, New Ideas

Today I got a shipment from Fabric.com because I have an absolute inability to control myself when presented with $1.95 a yard fabric AND a 30% off coupon. So, for $35.83 (yay, free shipping!) I got 24 1/2 yards of fabric, most of it from the Vera Wang Lavender collection, but also some shirting.

Here is the haul:


Two cotton shirtings, 4 yards each. They are a nice medium-weight cotton. I recently saw a woman that I work with wearing a shirt that was similar to the blue and black. Apparently plaid is back. Woe is me for throwing all mine out along with the Pearl Jam and Soundgarden CDs. Had I only known that grunge would return so quickly....

But, I think I might use McCalls 5929 for at least one of the plaids, since I like their example in the red plaid:
Next a pretty cotton sateen with a large-scale print:

It is super silky. Also in the photo is a wool with 4% lycra. It is very drapey, and would be great for a pant like the Hot Patterns Marrakesh Pant. However, since I already have a black pair, I will use this for a skirt. It is light enough that I may give a try with Butterick 5249. I had concerns about the pleats on the hips. I love the look, but that is certainly an area on me that needs no accentuating, and you certainly would not want to use a stiff fabric.
For the sateen, I am thinking about a trench coat. I have both McCall 5525 and Burda 7639, I think either would be a good look:


Finally, I have 5 yards each of the Cobalt/Multi boucle and the Ivory boucle:


The multi-colored boucle might make a good Chanel-style jacket, but I was toying wit the idea of using the ivory for the Wrapover Jacket in the December, 2009 Burda:


The pattern calls for a sweater knit, which I could get, but I really like the ivory boucle, and it seems like it would be soft enough and drapey enough to work. Of course, I could be going down a path to massive failure by not using the recommended fabric, so comments are welcome!!

In the meantime, I have been reorganizing my stash and trying to keep track of what I have. Here are JUST the wovens:


I have been entering them all into a spreadsheet since I discovered in my sorting that I have a tendency to "re-buy" things that I THINK I don't have, when really it's just burried under a pile of nonsense. I have probably 25 yards of black fabric for pants, some twill, some stretch twill, some wool, and some poly...all purchased because I was positive that I had no black pant fabric. Regardless, does anyone need 12 pairs of black pants? I think not. Perhaps I will have to start making jackets...and skirts...and shirts.

Question From a Reader

On my blog about the Hot Patterns Marrakesh Pants AnnB asked the question:

"I like the finished pants, they look nice on you. I also enjoyed the review of your adjustments as I have to make just the same ones. Ignore the pique about the peak in the pants. If a pattern did not have them before I do my adjustments it always does after. But...how do you handle the "peak" you can get raising the back waist? Do tell if you like."

To clarify, these are the adjustments that I have to make. Let's start with a schematic of a standard pants backpiece:

There are three major adjustments that I do. I start by extending the crotch curve, to prevent creases under the buttocks. I also add some width to the exterior of the leg for the same reason. I also slash the back and add a wedge to raise the back waist. I have illustrated my alterations in red:


Many pants also have back pattern pieces that are larger than the front pattern pieces. This is common in Burda patterns, and is also the case with the recent Hot Patterns pant. However, I have noticed that many of the Big 4 patterns have front and back pattern pieces that are of similar sizes. If this is the case, I will cut the front pattern piece in a smaller size and account for this in my back pattern piece. This moves the side seam forward, and creates a slimmer appearance, an important thing for us fluffy girls!

But to return to AnnB's question....how to account for the peak at the back waistband after I add the wedge.

The answer is, I don't.

If I use an unaltered pattern, the size of my bottom causes the waistband to droop, and gives me a case of plumber butt:


To combat this, I add the wedge into the back of the pant, raising the center waistband. Ann asks, how I deal with the peak that this would create in the back waistband.

When adding this wedge, if you add too much, you could very well create a peak, so it is important to not overdo it when you make this alteration. In my case, I add about 1 1/2 inches, since that is about the distance that the center of my waistband droops on an unaltered pant. My alteration provides enough room in the pant to accommodate my rear end, and prevent a full bottom from dragging down the center of the waistband.

Since that drag creates a "U" in the back waistband, my alteration does not create a peak in the back, but simply allows that top edge of the pant to lay horizontally across the back waist. Were I to make a larger wedge, then it would peak rather than lying horizontally, hence the reason that you should be conservative when making this alteration.

Finally, there is one last adjustment that may be necessary depending on the pant in question. Many of us that have to make this wedge alteration have to do so because we have a round bottom, and a waist that is very much smaller than our hips. Because of this, I also may tilt the back seam to prevent "gaposis." Pants with back darts may not require that "tilt," or you can rectify any gaping of the back waistband by increasing the size of the dart.

Here is an example of a pattern with an increased dart:


And here is an example of a pant with the back tilted to fit over the top of the buttocks:


However, I rarely include this in the original alterations unless it is the second time that I am making a pattern. I normally will make this change "on the fly," because I do a lot of trying on while I sew to see if I need to take in side seams or make other alterations.

It is also important to remember when making these adjustments that may change the circumference of the top of the pant, that you will also have to account for this in the waistband. I find it easier to use a waistband with only a center back seam as opposed to a back seam as well as side seams. That means that you don't have to deal with lining up the side seams of the waistband with the side seams of the pant. I use a contoured waistband from an Alice & Olivia pant from vogue that has only a center back seam. I like this one, but because it is a large pattern piece, you do have to account for that when you are purchasing your fabric.

If you have a similar body-type to mine, these alterations will help you to go from this:


To this:


I hope that this information is helpful, and thank you everyone for your comments and questions.

More of Sadie's Sewing

Yesterday my niece Sadie wanted to come over and do some more sewing. She saw the cardi-wrap that I had made when I wore it at Christmas, and has been harassing me ever since about wanting one of her own. I picked up an inexpensive knit from the bargain table at Hancock's so that she could make one.

Since she is still a little unsteady with the scissors, I cut the pattern out for her, otherwise there would be no way that we could leave the edges raw. Whether I let her use the scissors or the rotary cutters, anything she cuts looks like a pack of squirrels gnawed the pieces out of the fabric. I don't really know how to help her fix that, cutting smoothly is something that is so second-nature to me, I can't effectively explain to her how to do it, or diagnose what she is doing wrong. I am assuming she will get better with practice, since I assume that that is how I learned!

She did a good job sewing, however. I helped her with the shawl neckline, since that was a bit difficult, but she did the rest, and also sewed on the serger. I watch closely to make sure she is not zipping along too quickly, but she does very well controlling her speed. Here she is showing off all the different ways that her cardigan can be wrapped:





She just thinks she's the bee's knees, doesn't she? For her cardi we used the size small, and had to shorten the sleeves by 3 inches. She has a very long torso in relation to her waist, so we did not shorten the top at all. We have to do serious shortening on her pants and skirts, but shirts and jackets we don't alter.

As for my sewing, I have been planning some upcoming projects...some have been started and some have not. This year I would like to create fewer UFOs than I have in past years, perhaps I should have put that on the list of New Year's Resolutions. I have two unfinished projects that I want to work on in January.

I still need to finish my Chanel-style jacket. I started it during the sew-along, but then totally lost my mojo. But, it will be fantastic when it is done. I have the perfect combination of tweed and lining:


I will be using this pattern, in the shorter length but with longer sleeves:

Second, I have some shirts to make for my husband. I purchased a Japanese book on shirt-making, that has some fantastic patterns in it:


Once I get the muslin worked out, I'll make at least one version from this striped shirting from Fashion Fabrics Club:


I also purchased two very nice cotton shirtings while I was in Portland, and once I get the kinks worked out, I'll use those. They were recockulously expensive, so I will use the cheap stuff first.

I have a second FFC striped shirting, as well:


I am seriously considering using it for this shirt dress from the January Burda:


I love the shape of this dress, and I will have to size it up, but it should be fairly easy. I think that it would look nice in the stripe. Of course, I could be completely insane. That same issue also has a shirt pattern that is a serious contender for my Liberty fabric that I have been hoarding:


In fact, they recommend Liberty in their description. I think this would be a great way to show off the pretty fabric, although I have concerns that those pleats in the front will just make me look pregnant:


Of course, that is what muslins are for! I still have this blue from FFC:


Lastly, I would like to make this tunic/dress from the "Take one, Make four" section:

I have this silk charmeuse from the Vera Wang sale at Fabric.com, and haven't been able to come up with anything to make of it:


But, with the scribbles, and variation in color, I think the simple pattern will be better. I had also considered using this Vogue:

But I am afraid that the pleats at the neckline would make the dress just a touch too "boob-tastic." While I am sure I could skip the FBA on the dress with the pleats, I just don't see it going well. I may make a muslin of each and see what is the best look.

I would also like to make a couple more pairs of the Hot Patterns Marrakesh Pant. I am really happy with how they turned out, and I have a couple of "tweaks" I would like to make to make them even MORE awesome.

Hot Patterns Marrakesh Drawstring Pants

I finally finished my Hot Patterns Marrakesh Pants:


I thought that this would be a very bad style for me, but then I saw so many people making them on PR with fantastic results, as well as seeing Trudy's videos, I decided to give them a try. And can I say I was pleasantly surprised by the muslin? I had two tiny, tiny wrinkles under the bum that showed that I needed to extend that crotch curve on the back pattern piece, and I had to add a tiny wedge to the back to cover the bum and fix a little bit of "gaposis." This may SOUND like a lot of alterations, but in my experience with pants, these were NEARLY PERFECT. Seriously, I would have totally worn a pair of RTW pants with the minor issues that the muslin had.

So, I made my alterations and cut my fashion fabric. I had this deliciously drapey poly suiting that I bought in Portland at Fabric Depot, and some leftover zebra charmeuse that I used for the pocket bags. I know no one will see it, but it makes me happy.


I have to say, though, that I would be very reluctant to post a review about my happiness with the draft of this pant in light of a recent thread on PR, in which a couple of members accused reviewers of deliberately "glossing over" issues with patterns because a) the company is small, or b) we personally like the people who make them, or c) god knows why.

As far as I can tell, the original poster was stymied by the fact that where the inseams meet the crotch curve, there is a little hump...i.e., it does not make a perfect "U." The claim was that a beginner wouldn't know how to fix it, and because everyone else has conspired to hide the fact that the pattern draft is faulty, that we are complicit in chasing beginners away from sewing. OK, so I paraphrased, but that was the basic point...that beginners would be discouraged and might quit sewing.

OK, I understand frustration. I have been very frustrated by patterns. I was frustrated by the 4 million muslins I had to make to get a pair of pants that I wasn't ashamed to leave the house in. My response? That I could not post on the boards because there was no way I could "be nice?" Scroll up to the image of the pattern. See the two little dress forms at the top? Know what that means? NOT A BEGINNER PATTERN. As an "Advanced Beginner," the assumption should be that perhaps you have actually seen a pants pattern before, or would know how pants patterns go together, or have enough experience sewing (and wearing clothes) to know that pants crotch curves should not have a lump poking you in your junk. Having just completed this pattern, I can attest that this is a rather involved pattern. Between the waistband with a drawstring, the pockets, the topstitching, and the fly front...this had quite a few fiddly bits that beginners would be frustrated with long before they got to the crotch curve.

Not to mention, probably half the pants patterns I have ever sewn (and let's face it, I have sewn A LOT of them) have that hump and you just straighten it when you sew the legs together. I have done this to Vogue pants, to McCall's pants, to Burda, and I had to do it to this Hot Patterns draft. I don't even mention it in reviews because it happens all the time, and you just correct when you sew. The mismatch of the seams also tends to be "enhanced" once I start making my alterations.

But, no matter how many people pointed this out in the thread, the entire thing just became an excuse to bash Hot Patterns, or bash the people that said that they had had good luck with those patterns. So therefore, I will probably not be posting a review on PR, because I don't feel like being abused. Suffice it to say, I was very happy with these pants, and any issue with the crotch curve is so minor and so ubiquitous to pants patterns as to not warrant mention.

Here is the final product:


You can see that the back fits very well, with no pulling or creasing. To achieve this, I added 1 1/2 inches of length to the back crotch curve, blending back down into the inseam. I also added a 1 inch wedge to the back to raise the waistband and keep the undies from peeking out. I also tilted the back seam so that it would curve over the top of the derriere and prevent "gaposis."

I also added a slight bit of width to the front pattern piece, and may add more...but I can't decide if the creases at the crotch are because of fit, or because I've hiked them up by tying the drawstring too tight. The description says that the pants sit one inch below the natural waist, but in this picture I have them at the natural waist. I think I just need to loosen the drawstring:


Overall, I am extremely happy with these pants. Normally for pants I use fabrics with much more body, and these are like wearing pajamas. The only concern that I would have is that they don't exactly camouflage anything...so Spanx may be in order. I think a minor tweak here and there to account for other fabrics and these could be a fantastically versatile pant. I think that you could even use them for a lounge pant in a stretch knit, and omit the zipper. I am looking forward to using this pattern again.